Could you post a part/model number? I didn't know Wild One made a 10.5 Mini Ape.

 

I have the same bars on my RK, and did not have to take the cable clamp off from the nacelle, but did have to clip the cable tie at the lower frame, and re tied it to where there was some more slack. With that cable tie in place as it was, I couldn't go lock to lock. It was way too tight, and I could see how it might snap a cable.
It's still pretty tight, but not enough to break the cable, there is very small slack, but not much, it is pushing the limits for sure.
Did you take off that lower black zip tie on the frame?? My bike was is an 05, maybe they tied the cables differently in the new bikes?

Here's a pic of my clutch cable after moving that cable tie. When I go to SS cables, I think I will go +2 on the clutch, that should perfect.

 

I had to look the number up, they are WO515's and I said they are 10.5's but they are 10". Seeing how the stock cable was broken I went ahead and ordered a +6 clutch cable from Dennis Kirk. They had it in stock and shipped it today,pretty helpful actually. I think after seeing some of the replies I might have gotten away with the stock cable if I had done some things but it is what it is. With the +6 I don't have to mess with it. I just want to ride.....

 

I also pulled the cable housing out of the crimp down by the adjuster. This when installing Heritage-style bars with 4.5" risers on my 2011 Road King. I had disconnected the cable from the nacelle clamp and that seemed to provide the slack I needed. But in riser installation process I hung the cable up on the nacelle stud and pulled the cable housing out of crimp when moving front wheel left and right.

My questions: is there a way to recrimp the cable? If so, is this wise? Are there any alternatives to replacing the cable? If I do replace, I am thinking +4 would be good. Then I could put the cable back in the nacelle clamp. Any comments from this extraordinarily helpful group?