Front Fork Fluid level FLHX
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,532
Likes: 132
From: SoCal
Ditch the digital scale and the specific gravity conversion formula, and just get a cheap measuring cup with a fl/oz scale. Bottom line is the linear measurement from the top of the fluid to the top of the collapsed tube is whats critical, doesn't matter how much fluid is left after the linear measurment, or what units of measurement you use to account for what's left over.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Puyallup, WA
I agree the vertical collapsed measurement is the one that matters most. does anyone know the measure down with the forks on the bike. I may end up draining the tubes and going with a slightly heavier weight oil. I know the manual says otherwise but I know plenty on here who have simply drained the forks via the drain plug, then refilled the from the top with the forks (and front tire) still mounted to the bike.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,532
Likes: 132
From: SoCal
I agree the vertical collapsed measurement is the one that matters most. does anyone know the measure down with the forks on the bike. I may end up draining the tubes and going with a slightly heavier weight oil. I know the manual says otherwise but I know plenty on here who have simply drained the forks via the drain plug, then refilled the from the top with the forks (and front tire) still mounted to the bike.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Puyallup, WA
Yeah i understand the wt/ viscosity and what it does. I want to switch to a heavier wt oil will to slow the fork action a bit reducing the nose dive effect. I dont want to change the dampening resistance by changing oil volume so i would keep it at what the manual suggests
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 715
Likes: 2
From: St. Charles, Mo.
Yeah i understand the wt/ viscosity and what it does. I want to switch to a heavier wt oil will to slow the fork action a bit reducing the nose dive effect. I dont want to change the dampening resistance by changing oil volume so i would keep it at what the manual suggests
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,916
Likes: 31
From: earth
Heavy oil is a super cheap budget technique to mitigate brake dive, but with the simple OEM valves, that heavy oil aslo affects damping, rebound, and ultimately compliance. If you are going to tear it down to change oil, do yourself a big favor and drop in a good set of springs instead, that will be a greater improvement across the board. Better yet add some aftermarket valves with the springs, the whole shebang will only run about $325 if you do your own wrenchin'.
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rodzooka
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Jan 13, 2013 05:18 PM
