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Another failed compensator

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 2heritagespringers
Blue loctite won't hold up to the heat
I kinda suspected that, but it never hurts to ask. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:38 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 2heritagespringers
Blue loctite won't hold up to the heat
It also won't hold up to the size of the bolt. Or the high torque load. Definitely use red. If you need to remove it, a little heat from a torch will do the trick.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 10:26 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 2heritagespringers
Blue loctite won't hold up to the heat

most all brands of loctite /thread locker.. turn lose @ around 400 degrees... the red is just a stronger bond... it will come apart.. some people think red welds the parts together... it dosent...you have to read between the lines when it comes to the HD directions... use you own best judgement.. also before appling loctite clean the thread throughly... loctite primer really helps..
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 10:57 AM
  #14  
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These appear to be a fix: http://www.automotivemachine.com/ind...emid=53#clbolt
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by FroggyFatBoy
shortride, did you see any drop in MPG when you upgraded to the SEC ?


Tortoise, would you let me know if you see a drop in fuel mileage. thx..


https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ring-help.html
1st tank came in around 46mpg, so no noticeable change. I'm running an '09 UC, 103", stage 1 w/download, Rinehart slip ons if you are looking for comparisons.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 05:33 AM
  #16  
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thanks tortoise.. i guess i'll wait for the fuel blend to change and see what happens.

i wished i could actually scan the efi system with my scanner and see actual sensor values to make sure every thing was working correctly and not to the extreme of its allowed values..


i've got a hint for taking engine/trans related loc-tited components apart.. if at all possible, take the bike for a short ride to get it warmed up. the heat from the eng itself will sometimes suffice to soften the loct-tite for it to break loose. i do this on certain car eng repairs when i know loc-tites are involved and it makes for a much easier disassembly. ..
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 06:08 AM
  #17  
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From my personal experience, blue works on the thing. You just use more than a few drops. Wrench told me about it when it took a 3/4 impact gun awhile to break loose mine. Said don't use the red use the blue and plenty of it.

Reassembled this way and put many miles on before having to take it back apart for spring change and had to work at it with a long cheater pipe on a 1/2 inch breaker bar to remove it. So in my book blue works.

Another tid bit of info. Look at how far in the threads are on the comp assembly. How much other stuff in there is getting cooked while heating up the fastener hot enough to break the bond of red loctite.

Also cleaning the parts very well will let the thread lock do it's job.
 

Last edited by V-Twins & Bowties; Apr 1, 2012 at 06:13 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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My replaced compensator just started acting up, grinding on hot start up. Was there ever a service bulletin out about it or only replaced under factory warranty?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lionsm13
Yep, that's what I am doing the next time I have to open the primary. Several companies are now making similar systems.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #20  
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just sent an email ......need to get one of these so I can have piece of mind for my piece of mind.
 
Attached Thumbnails Another failed compensator-screen-shot-2012-04-01-at-3.11.26-pm.jpg  
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