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Changing brake / clutch cables..any pointers?

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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #1  
mike1158's Avatar
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Default Changing brake / clutch cables..any pointers?

I'm doing a bar swap on my 2010 SG right now and i'm gonna upgrade my clutch and front brake lines... i ordered some Magnum lines.. I Wanted to know if you guys had any pointers or tips on how to do this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks boys...be well... ride safe
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:13 AM
  #2  
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Brake is straight forward... but for the clutch to save fluid pull bike onto a 2x4 and then lean over to kickstand side. you only lose a few drops from cracking the cover.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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gonna keep an eye on this one as I'm going to change clutch cable this weekend....
What I've learned so far from reading through threads:
- What first response was...put bike on 2x4 and lean over to save fluid
- don't necessarily need to take exhaust off, just cut down an allen wrench to fit between. if you do, hit the bolts with PB blaster for 2-3 days each day before hand.
- replace gasket
- don't need to disassemble the ramp and ball (i don't think...)
- need to apply some kind of lube to the new cable (still looking for what that is)


it seems fairly easy....looking forward to it to see what i can jack up
good luck.
steve
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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HEAVY DUTY clip ring pliers. The normal ones you get will just bend, that clip ring is huge.

I was told not to lubricate my clutch line, I got a barnett one with teflon coating. I don't know if the magnum is teflon or not.

Get speed bleeders or a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. I used the vacuum pump and it took about 3 minutes to bleed my front brakes by myself.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #5  
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[quote=sedouglas;9618805]I was told not to lubricate my clutch line, I got a barnett one with teflon coating. I don't know if the magnum is teflon or not.
[quote]

ok...that's good. I bought a barnett one from J&P..didn't ask them about it, i only saw the video that someone posted on here where they added some lubricant.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 01:51 PM
  #6  
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i have V&H Dresser Duals so i think the stacked head pipes are gonna ruin the chance of me NOT having to pull at least some of the exhaust.

I'm assuming i'll need a new tranny gasket once i pull that cover????
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Chalk
gonna keep an eye on this one as I'm going to change clutch cable this weekend....
What I've learned so far from reading through threads:
- What first response was...put bike on 2x4 and lean over to save fluid
- don't necessarily need to take exhaust off, just cut down an allen wrench to fit between. if you do, hit the bolts with PB blaster for 2-3 days each day before hand.
- replace gasket
- don't need to disassemble the ramp and ball (i don't think...)
- need to apply some kind of lube to the new cable (still looking for what that is)


it seems fairly easy....looking forward to it to see what i can jack up
good luck.
steve
This is pretty spot on. Just did mine over the weekend. On my magnum clutch cable it said not to lube it. The gasket is about $5 at the dealer. Make sure you put the lever end together first. I was able to get it hooked on the tranny side without disassembling the ball and ramp.

Do you have abs?
 

Last edited by Nightrain04; Apr 4, 2012 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:37 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Nightrain04
This is pretty spot on. Just did mine over the weekend. On my magnum clutch cable it said not to lube it. The gasket is about $5 at the dealer. Make sure you put the lever end together first. I was able to get it hooked on the tranny side without disassembling the ball and ramp.

Do you have abs?
No i don't have ABS...

???? What is the "ball and ramp" ???
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:03 AM
  #9  
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Ball and Ramp is the internals inside the clutch housing. Its what disengages your clutch when you squeeze the lever.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:48 AM
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Be careful not to break the brake light switch & the switch in the clutch lever housing
 
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