12 RK, 1k service.

I did the clutch adjustment using same method I had been on my previous softail with 1/2 turn play. I took the bike for a test ride and the clutch engagement was way too far from the grip. I adjusted to 1 full turn, and when I went to take the slack out with the adjuster I didn't even make it to the 1/8 play at the ferrule before the adjuster completely unthreaded. I adjusted again to 3/4 turn and was able to get it everything in spec, but now a new issue. With the bike off, in gear, if I try to roll the bike forward by disengaging the clutch, the bike won't budge. If I shift to neutral, it rolls no problem. So now I'm thinking the clutch is still engaged even with the lever pulled in. The cable does not feel like its binding anywhere.

For now, I'm going to adjust back to 1/2 turn and leave some slop in the lever, but does anyone see what i might be doing wrong?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw6da27b1w4

 

Thanks for the video, but I know how to adjust it from previous instances with the softail. I never had any issues like this either.

 

I always thought the cable is what really determined where the clutch grabs. Adjust it to were a dime fits where the cable connects.

 

I have exactly the same problem. Being that this is the first Harley I've ever owned I thought I must have screwed up because the clutch was grabbing too early imo so I took it to the new indie in town. It took him a half hour and he didn't charge me much but my lever is sloppy as hell.

 

you can try this, after you make the adj at the plates 1/2 turn or what ever you need and before you adj your cable slack squeeze your clutch 3 or 4 times. the rod that goes threw the plates has a few ball bearings in there that has to be in line before you make your cable adj.that will set the ball and ramp release mechanism. this has to be done while the bike is cold.

 

 

What do you do if you still have a lot of free play and nothing will engage after you do the adjustment at the plate ?

 

that info came from the service manual, it said to make the finale adj at the clutch cable nuts. but a forum member here posted this and it was a lot easier for me to do beings using his method you keep pressure on the ball and ramp release mechanism while your making the adj.


Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.

3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.

4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.

 

Could be your cable has stretched beyond limits!