Clutch Adjustment Issues
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Hate to say it but your perceived issue is actually quite normal.
When disengaged the drag you are feeling is typical of wet clutches and is caused by the binding effect of the oil between the clutch plates.
This issue can become more or less pronounced depending on the clutch adjustment, but will be present even when the clutch is adjusted correctly. It is also more pronounced when cold. The oil's binding effect on the clutch plates diminishes with temperature.
If you have freeplay in the clutch, at the lever, can shift normally, and have no slippage under load, then your clutch adjustment is within an acceptable range. Pushing the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged is not a parameter to be concerned with.
When disengaged the drag you are feeling is typical of wet clutches and is caused by the binding effect of the oil between the clutch plates.
This issue can become more or less pronounced depending on the clutch adjustment, but will be present even when the clutch is adjusted correctly. It is also more pronounced when cold. The oil's binding effect on the clutch plates diminishes with temperature.
If you have freeplay in the clutch, at the lever, can shift normally, and have no slippage under load, then your clutch adjustment is within an acceptable range. Pushing the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged is not a parameter to be concerned with.
Account Retired
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,245
Likes: 12
From: Here
that info came from the service manual, it said to make the finale adj at the clutch cable nuts. but a forum member here posted this and it was a lot easier for me to do beings using his method you keep pressure on the ball and ramp release mechanism while your making the adj.
Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Clutch Adjustment The Easy Way
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Is your primary transmission oil adapted for a wet clutch "JASO-MA" or better "MA2"?
When you see, feel and know that the clutch pressure plate has enough travel to free the discs and the drag remains, then the oil needs be investigated.
When you see, feel and know that the clutch pressure plate has enough travel to free the discs and the drag remains, then the oil needs be investigated.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
I use this method to adjust my clutch. The only thing I do different from this and the Video above, I always slide the boot on the cable adjuster up instead of down. That way you don't stretch the opening around the cable to let more water in the top. The next thing I do different, I use one finger to hold the clutch lever against the grip so I can better feel light pressure when I turn the adjuster screw in at the clutch pack. When I start to feel the cable trying to pull the lever away from the grip, I stop and lock it right there. I don't back it off 1/2 turn. That way you will still have plenty of threads left at the cable adjuster. Works for me!!
If this method has been working for you, you've been lucky.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,977
Likes: 85
From: Nevada
I'd suggest you rethink your process. If you don't back off the adjuster you have effectively removed any free-play from the clutch and that can lead to slippage and premature clutch wear. A properly adjusted clutch has free-play at the clutch and at the lever. Do away with either of those and you're asking for problems. Free-play at the lever alone is no gaurantee that there is free-play at the clutch.
If this method has been working for you, you've been lucky.
If this method has been working for you, you've been lucky.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 785
Likes: 2
From: SE TN
Hate to say it but your perceived issue is actually quite normal.
When disengaged the drag you are feeling is typical of wet clutches and is caused by the binding effect of the oil between the clutch plates.
This issue can become more or less pronounced depending on the clutch adjustment, but will be present even when the clutch is adjusted correctly. It is also more pronounced when cold. The oil's binding effect on the clutch plates diminishes with temperature.
If you have freeplay in the clutch, at the lever, can shift normally, and have no slippage under load, then your clutch adjustment is within an acceptable range. Pushing the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged is not a parameter to be concerned with.
When disengaged the drag you are feeling is typical of wet clutches and is caused by the binding effect of the oil between the clutch plates.
This issue can become more or less pronounced depending on the clutch adjustment, but will be present even when the clutch is adjusted correctly. It is also more pronounced when cold. The oil's binding effect on the clutch plates diminishes with temperature.
If you have freeplay in the clutch, at the lever, can shift normally, and have no slippage under load, then your clutch adjustment is within an acceptable range. Pushing the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged is not a parameter to be concerned with.
. My initial assumption was the bike should roll, but not as freely as in neutral. The resistance was so much that I felt like it wasn't disengaged at all. I played with it more this morning and finally got the engagement where I want it. A quick ride to check, and all is well.
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