I am going to tell them to see how the stock brake line works but the indy is attached to a parts guy I used before they combined. So he has a bunch of lines and parts that something could be made right there for me if needed. And if not, they he uses drag and can get something pretty quick.

Thanks for the reply. I am hoping they can do the swap without the abs light. Did you pull the maxi-fuse when ya did it all? Any info I can give them will make it easier.

Thanks

 

How did those stock cables work out for you? I'm having 10" MBB's put on next week. I ordered a longer clutch cable, but now I'm concerned about the brake line. By all that I have read, the stock cable will work, but my concern is will it be to tight, were you able to run the cable through the fairing hole?

Maybe someone else that has 10" MBB's with stock brake line on can chime in. I just want the brake line to follow the contours of the bars and not have a big separation between line and bar....if you can make visual sense out of that?

 

I know this thread is a few months old, but I personally just did this project a few days ago. I used Yaffe 10" OEM Bagger bars on my 2012 StreetGlide. Take your time, take allot of pictures and you'll do fine is my only advice. I did go with a +4 clutch cable on mine. The stock wasn't going to reach going through the fairing like I wanted, so I just bought a new one. The brake lines were fine, I didn't have to bend or change anything. While getting the clutch cable at an indy shop I also bought an 8" TBW Extension cable. Took about 30 minutes to install it. I used a piece of string with a weight on the end to feed the string through the bars. Tied the string on the throttle side of the bars and pulled the cable through with no problem. I was then able to route the wiring like it should be in the fairing and it worked great.Everything else was pretty self explanatory for cables. Being new to working on bikes the clutch cable swap did prove a challenge but I pulled it off. Since I removed the clutch cover I had some oil come out and run down in the frame, I've been watching it and catching it on my garage floor on a piece of newspaper, I'm not sure if I didn't get the gasket sealed right or if the oil is just left over and slowly dripping out. It's getting better but I'm going to just watch it a few days since it's too cold to ride in South Dakota right now. If it doesn't stop I'll have to pull it apart again and just replace the gasket. It was a fun project, loved every minute of it, but I am glad that it's done.

 

Really happy that I found this thread.... because I really can't justify spending all the money on new cables just for this mod.

Went with the road 6 customs 10" bars and was able to use the stock everything.

 

Just finishing up mine, same as everyone...but I went and did the chrome covers at the same time, electrics no biggy really just a bunch of solder, but could probably do it by removing pins and being careful with the what you use to pull with. I most certainly say under any normal condition you need to go with the longer clutch..I went +4 and it really only makes sense.

Overally job wasn't that hard, it is time consuming but if you take your time and have some sense about you its no big problem. I still haven't riden the bike, but then this is a part of a complete buildup so have to wait for wheels and odds ends...but looks great and fits me ..any taller bars I think wouldn't have worked for me.

Lube is your friend!

 

Do you have photos of your SG with the new Yaffe Bagger Apes installed? I'd love to see it because I'm considering the same bars.

You're saying that the brake lines were long enough? Did you route them the same way as stock?

Thanks.

 

id also like to see a pic maybe a before and after. *BUMP*

 

 

I tried the stock cables and had to go back and put a +4 clutch cable on. Everything else was ok.

 

He you can see were my stock brake line runs down the bar, the other side is a +4 on the clutch.