Ok Ok, I know this has been covered over and over.....I am purchasing MBB and want to make sure I get the right ones. It is between the 10's and 12's.

What I am after and cannot seem to come across is hand position between the two? Meaning for all that have installed, between the 10's and 12's, could you post up an approximate grip position. This way I could sit on the bike, and hold my arms up to that postion to see which will make my arms more straight out.

I am definately after a new clutch cable. Where should I source one from or does someone have a part# for the one they used? Was a brake cable necessary? And if so, can I replace just the upper from the Master Cylinder only?

Any help would be appreciated....Thanks

 

I'm running a different bar made by Torch Industries but my 12" are the same height as monkey 10". The monkey 10" will put your hands just about the height of were the windshield attaches to the fairing. Obviously the 12" will be 2" higher than that. If you search Torch Industries in the touring section you"ll find my thread with pics. Good luck

 

Are you running the street z or HB4? Those are nice too! I will have to take these into consideration also

 

So do the Torch bars run shorter than advertised or the Monkey bars taller than advertised?

Was gonna order a set of bars from Justin myself.....

 

I have the street z's. I had mine powdercoated locally so i cant tell you how good their coating is but the quality of the bars is the best i've seen. That and they are made in house so he can change specs for you if needed. I ordered 12" and thats exactly what they measured, monkey's run about 2" taller than advertised. I love the monkey's but they are a little too popular and i wanted something that didn't have the dramatic batwing bend to them at the bottom to clear the fairing. These just have a nice smooth bend all the way up.

 

I've decided the answers you seek are almost impossible to obtain. Reason being the pullback. A pair of 10's can look completely different on each bike just as a pair of 12's can, depending how far the installer pulled them back towards himself. Meaning I've seen pics of 12's that seemed to have the same rise as 10's. If you use the search function on here you will find pics of no less than 2 dozen different Electras/SG's from the seated position. You can also get some exact measurements from Bagger Nations site. Best I've been able to put together is that if I rest my hands on top of the mirrors on my Ultra that might be a wee bit higher than 10's if stood straight up. Course if you have a SG that doesn't help you. Basically I think with 10's you can see just part of the grip clearing the fairing if straight up. Again though, many seem to pull them back further and they appear shorter than that. I think my 10's got shipped Friday so I expect to have them by the end of this week.

On the clutch cable: Also a bit foggy. One group says they ran the cable outside of the fairing instead of using the hole and kept it stock. Another group say that if you re-route the cable inside the fairing that you can retain stock. 3 or 4 say to buy a +2 cable which is what I did, and still a few more recommend doing +4 on the cable. Not a single person has mentioned where the extra length is on the longer cables in relation to the adjusting point where it separates, but I'll know the answer to that within 2 weeks when my install is complete.

You do not need a new brake cable with the 10's.

 

The extra length is from the adjuster to the bars. The distance from the trans to the front of the bike stays the same, since it's not impacted by different bars.

 

I have the 12's and my hands are just below my shoulders. 10's would be to low for me.

 

The extra length should always come after the adjuster going towards bars. I have 10" monkey bars. I tried to use the stock clutch cable routed several different ways and it was just too tight. It kept pulling the rubber grommet out of the fairing. I can verify the tens put your grips at the same heighth as where the windshield meets the fairing, I can also tell you I used a +2 clutch cable from Barnetts and it was a thousand times battere than trying to use the stock cable. And If I remember right it was only $35ish. Oh, and with my +2 cable, the adjuster is at the same location as with the stock cable (or close enough I cant tell a difference.) Hope this helps. I can try to post if pic if that will help you, but as mentioned, with pullback figured in, it wont do you much good. I have mine rotated as far up as possible without contacting the fairing. Other than clutch, all other cables, hoses, wiring, etc. were long enough.

 

My stock brake line worked but i had to run my clutch cable without it going through the fairing. Get a +4" clutch for the yaffe 10" or Torch 12" and you can run it through the stock location. If you go with 12" yaffe's you will have to replace the upper brake line. All wiring worked fine with a little re-routing.