When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm running a different bar made by Torch Industries but my 12" are the same height as monkey 10". The monkey 10" will put your hands just about the height of were the windshield attaches to the fairing. Obviously the 12" will be 2" higher than that. If you search Torch Industries in the touring section you"ll find my thread with pics. Good luck
Checked out Torch based on this post. Those HB-4's look really cool (very close to the Yaffe's) and the price looked good. Then I saw an extra $50 for chrome. Still $30 cheaper than Yaffe and wouldn't have the same custom bars as everyone else. Plus and plus. My Yaffe's are in the mail though and with my hookup I came in under the HB-4's so I am not second guessing my choice on the Yaffe's. Good to know there is a good option to recommend to people though.
The extra length is from the adjuster to the bars. The distance from the trans to the front of the bike stays the same, since it's not impacted by different bars.
Originally Posted by drummin777
The extra length should always come after the adjuster going towards bars. Oh, and with my +2 cable, the adjuster is at the same location as with the stock cable (or close enough I cant tell a difference.)
Thanks to both of you. Knowing this I'll now have to decide if I want to be lazy and only use half of my new cable.
The extra length should always come after the adjuster going towards bars. I have 10" monkey bars. I tried to use the stock clutch cable routed several different ways and it was just too tight. It kept pulling the rubber grommet out of the fairing. I can verify the tens put your grips at the same heighth as where the windshield meets the fairing, I can also tell you I used a +2 clutch cable from Barnetts and it was a thousand times battere than trying to use the stock cable. And If I remember right it was only $35ish. Oh, and with my +2 cable, the adjuster is at the same location as with the stock cable (or close enough I cant tell a difference.) Hope this helps. I can try to post if pic if that will help you, but as mentioned, with pullback figured in, it wont do you much good. I have mine rotated as far up as possible without contacting the fairing. Other than clutch, all other cables, hoses, wiring, etc. were long enough.
Excellent, this is what I was looking for. I have shorter arms, and im having mean city lower my seat 1.5". So im sure they will be pulled back a bit. The top of the fairing above the speaker holes would be perfect for me. I think the 10's are what I should be after. So when I get a clutch cable do I just ask for +4 or +2 whichever.....or do I need to know a specific length?
Excellent, this is what I was looking for. I have shorter arms, and im having mean city lower my seat 1.5". So im sure they will be pulled back a bit. The top of the fairing above the speaker holes would be perfect for me. I think the 10's are what I should be after. So when I get a clutch cable do I just ask for +4 or +2 whichever.....or do I need to know a specific length?
If you get the 12"'s you can pull them back more and they will have more reach because they're taller.......
I can also tell you I used a +2 clutch cable from Barnetts and it was a thousand times battere than trying to use the stock cable.
Wanted to confirm: With the +2 you are running through the fairing? If so, routed same as stock or re-routed? Still have my doubts if maybe I should've gone +4.
My local dealer is no help when it comes to the clutch cable or brake lines. I told them I need a cable +4" over stock, and they tell me i need to take the old one off and measure it so we can figure out what 4" over stock is.......shouldn't they be able to know what the stock length is?!! I don't want to get into the project without the cable on hand.
i'm not 100% but i think you will need a 64" for it to be a +2" or a 66" for it to be a +4". Call Dr. V-Twin, they're a member on the site and they will know and get it alot cheaper than your dealer. Google them and you'll find their site, I've used them many times and they're great to deal with.
i'm not 100% but i think you will need a 64" for it to be a +2" or a 66" for it to be a +4". Call Dr. V-Twin, they're a member on the site and they will know and get it alot cheaper than your dealer. Google them and you'll find their site, I've used them many times and they're great to deal with.
Will do, checked their price on the bars, and was quite a bit higher than what I can get off ebay with free shipping. Maybe I just need to give a call.
I just finished putting 10" MBB on my 2010 SG...so i may be of some asssistance...
i don't know what year your bike is but i know that on the newer bikes (i believe 09 and up) you CAN NOT just replace the upper brake line. the stock unit is not threaded where the spletter is under the tripple tree where it goes from single line to double. It is a pressed or "crimped" fitting. so you have to relpace the WHOLE unit.
I can however tell you that your stock upper brake line is 23"...so if you wanna go +4 youll be at 27"
I went +4 on the clutch cable also... don't remember the length..i could maybe check the package when i get home
For cables i went to Magnum....i did some research on their website then ordered the cable through my local dealer...Magnum sells through Drag Specialties...
I should also tell you that one of the reasons i orderd through a dealer is to ease the return process if i had any problems...AND I DID.... as far as i can tell there itsan error either in the DS catalog or on Magnum's end but they listed a +4 upper brake line as 23" and that is EXACTLY the same length as stock...so long story short if you go with Mganum brake lines,,get a 27"
Hope this helps...good luck
Last edited by mike1158; Apr 23, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.