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I don't consider high temps in a Harley V-Twin until it hits 300 degrees +.
The rear cylinder dropout, which is found on certain late model Harleys does not come into play until 278 degrees. It initiates only when the bike is not moving at idle engine speed. If the engine somehow hit 300 degrees or more (and they all will) it does not disintegrate nor does it render itself inoperative. When you hit temps in that range, you need to get moving. High temperatures is where the use of synthetic oils in an air cooled engine really shine in comparison to dino oils. If a person does not want to go with the high cost of multi weight synthetic oils an alternative would be a high quality multi weight heavy duty diesel oil such as Delo or Shell 15W40.
I recently checked my oil temperatue after coming in from a 2 hour ride at 70-75 mph. The ambient air temp outside was 78 degrees and my oil temp was 246 degrees. As long as you have air blowing across those jugs (cylinders) and fins, high temps are just not a problem. If at some point you are seeing white smoke come off your fins, that is too hot and the engine needs to be shut off and allowed to cool down. The only time I have ever seen that is if the bike is in a parade or in heavy stop and go traffic when the temps outside are 100 degrees. If your bike is too hot it will tell you by being unresponsive to acceleration and really loud pinging.
Well the bike only has 5000 miles and I am not a speed demon. So that leaves RPM.
I normally try to stay in the 2200-3000 range so I do not think I run hi RPM's
I can not check the temp when driving so I have to try and remember to check when I am stopped.
The variables I mentioned need to be observed independently and collectively, and they constantly influence your oil temp whether you notice it or not. You say you only check temp when you're stopped so you don't see in operation fluctuations. Time, the longer you ride continuously the hotter your oil will get. RPMs, the higher RPMs you turn the hotter your oil will get. MPH or Speed, this ones a little tricky, basically the slower you go the hotter your oil will get, because there isnt enough air to take the heat away from the cooling fins. There is also a point when you go faster than about 60MPH that your oil starts getting hotter also, more so because of the RPMs required to generate the speed also generate more heat than the fins can shed by natural air flow convection. I consider the RPMs the most influential, in steady state operations like cruising nonstop on a long road, I have witnessed that an increase of 250 RPMs will raise your normalized OT about 10 degrees, recently in some mild weather, about 75 I think, my OT normalized at 190F turning 2500 RPMS, I bumped it up to 2750 RPMS and it gradually came up and leveled off at 200F, bumped it again to 3000 RPMS and it came up to 210, 3250 on the superslab and it comes up to 220F.
Sorry guys the CAT does not influence oil temp.
The EPA tune is what it is just like every new car on the road, its not overly lean, its just stoich in the cruise range (clean, responsive, and efficient), since it takes a ridiculous amount of enrichment to effect CHTs, ergo oil temp, I don't consider it a variable in manipulating oil temp, it has to burn fuel, thats what makes it an engine. Enrichment cools EGTs so the hottest element of the bike, the exhaust pipes, "feels" cooler when add a little fuel, there is no real drop in CHT/OT till you get the cruise A/F down in the low 13s and below.
As far as the OEM oil cooler on the 103s, I'm not so sure about HDs reasoning, but I would have to think the increased displacement and I think a lot of folks would agree the 96s could have used the OEM cooler a long time ago, and the 88s couldve benefitted also.
Or what the EPA has done to Harley in the last 5 years... Some of this, is the reason you see coolers on new 103
I think the main reason you see oil cooler's on 103's are due to Cat's in the header's and nancy boyz crying my motorcycle is hot. Man up, they are all hot. you are sitting on top of an engine with no insulation between you. I don't care what you put on them, when you stop you are going to feel heat, even if it's hot air blowing on you from the row of fan's you hung on it. Use a good synthetic oil and change it more often if you ride around town.
I think the main reason you see oil cooler's on 103's are due to Cat's in the header's and nancy boyz crying my motorcycle is hot. Man up, they are all hot. you are sitting on top of an engine with no insulation between you. I don't care what you put on them, when you stop you are going to feel heat, even if it's hot air blowing on you from the row of fan's you hung on it. Use a good synthetic oil and change it more often if you ride around town.
I love the fact that not a single thread can be posted without at least one insult being thrown around. But thats what makes this forum so interesting. Thanks for all the info guys. Not worried about the heat on my leg and now after all the input not really too worried about my oil temps.
the higher RPMs you turn the hotter your oil will get. MPH or Speed, this ones a little tricky, basically the slower you go the hotter your oil will get, because there isnt enough air to take the heat away from the cooling fins. There is also a point when you go faster than about 60MPH that your oil starts getting hotter also, more so because of the RPMs required to generate the speed also generate more heat than the fins can shed by natural air flow convection. I consider the RPMs the most influential, in steady state operations like cruising nonstop on a long road, I have witnessed that an increase of 250 RPMs will raise your normalized OT about 10 degrees, recently in some mild weather, about 75 I think, my OT normalized at 190F turning 2500 RPMS, I bumped it up to 2750 RPMS and it gradually came up and leveled off at 200F, bumped it again to 3000 RPMS and it came up to 210, 3250 on the superslab and it comes up to 220F.
This is some amazing **** right here!!! Who would have thought if you pull more load or stop, your oil will get hotter??? I would suggest if you didn't already know this, sell your bike and sit on the porch so you won't hurt yourself.
The EPA tune is what it is just like every new car on the road, its not overly lean, its just stoich in the cruise range (clean, responsive, and efficient), since it takes a ridiculous amount of enrichment to effect CHTs, ergo oil temp, I don't consider it a variable in manipulating oil temp, it has to burn fuel, thats what makes it an engine. Enrichment cools EGTs so the hottest element of the bike, the exhaust pipes, "feels" cooler when add a little fuel, there is no real drop in CHT/OT till you get the cruise A/F down in the low 13s and below.
This is my experience too. I mislabeled my standard PV tune and ran a very rich tune all day about a month ago. It was set to 13.0 throughout the operating range, whereas I usually run 14.5 in the cruise range, and I saw no difference in CHT or OT that day compared to the next when I took another long ride--at least none that couldn't be explained by the ambient temperature difference. OTOH, gas mileage was down 6mpg on the first ride and I couldn't discern any difference in performance.
Further, when I was running a PCV I was able to toggle between a relatively rich and lean map (13.5 vs. 14.6 in the cruise range) and only saw a 7° difference in CHT on a summer highway ride--no difference in OT based on the gauge reading.
I think AFR is misunderstood as being a panacea for lowering engine temperatures, but this isn't my experience. I run nearly stock AFRs at all times and don't have a heat problem--only rarely seeing CHT hit 300° in heavy traffic.
the higher RPMs you turn the hotter your oil will get. MPH or Speed, this ones a little tricky, basically the slower you go the hotter your oil will get, because there isnt enough air to take the heat away from the cooling fins. There is also a point when you go faster than about 60MPH that your oil starts getting hotter also, more so because of the RPMs required to generate the speed also generate more heat than the fins can shed by natural air flow convection. I consider the RPMs the most influential, in steady state operations like cruising nonstop on a long road, I have witnessed that an increase of 250 RPMs will raise your normalized OT about 10 degrees, recently in some mild weather, about 75 I think, my OT normalized at 190F turning 2500 RPMS, I bumped it up to 2750 RPMS and it gradually came up and leveled off at 200F, bumped it again to 3000 RPMS and it came up to 210, 3250 on the superslab and it comes up to 220F.
This is some amazing **** right here!!! Who would have thought if you pull more load or stop, your oil will get hotter??? I would suggest if you didn't already know this, sell your bike and sit on the porch so you won't hurt yourself.
Right , everybody knows that answer, about anyone could have spit that out. Interestringly enough the member in post #37 of this thread didn't know and he asked the question, and I did my best to answer it. You might have caught that if you weren't so focused on trying to find something that you might provoke me with. I'm real sorry that we disagree on XIEDs, but that doesn't arbitrarilly make everthying I have to say bullshit, as you insist. Contrary to your belief not everyone who owns a harley thoroughly understands the thermal dynamics associated with their motorcycle. Even you think your motor runs cooler cause you added a little extra fuel, but the fact is only your exhaust pipes are a little cooler. I'll give you props for effort but you aren't going to bait me into any more arguments, you're not worth it.
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