torque wrench
CDI Torque Wrenches
Do a search and you will find them at a reasonable price.
CDI Torque Wrenches
Do a search and you will find them at a reasonable price.
i am looking at getting a digital torque wrench & mostly use it on my SG, now im not sure witch one to get the....
1/4" drive
2-20 ft lbs (24-240 in lbs)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
or
3/8" drive
5-100 ft lbs (60-1200 in lbs)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
witch one do you think would cover more of the bike?
thanks in advance
IIRC, the derby cover inspection bolts specify in-lb torques. Get a properly rated wrench to do that and forget about trying to use the bottom end of a big ft-lb rated wrench. Why? Because any torque wrench will return accurate performance only in the middle portion of it's specified torque range. The bottom and top portions of the wrench's rated range will return inaccurate torque values. Having separate wrenches for in-lb and ft-lb uses as suggested by others is the best idea, IMO, and is the way I do it too.
I own several torque wrenches, one of which is a digital one, and it's my least favorite of the lot. It's just not always convenient to keep the digital display in your line of vision using the wrench.
Of the two you refer to, the 2-20 ft-lb one would be nearly useless IMO. Not nearly enough range, and probably only 10 ft-lb in the middle of the range would be accurate enough to trust.
Finally, be aware that spring-type torque wrenches should never be stored "loaded", they should always be unloaded before storage. They also need to be "worked" some before each use for accurate results.
There is a special variation of torque wrench that is unique in some useful ways. It's called the split-beam torque wrench, and I own this one which I use to tighten my 5th wheel trailer lug nuts to 120 ft-lbs. It does not require the "working in" prior to usage, which would be difficult to do on the side of the road somewhere.
Lots more to know about torque wrenches, but that enough food for thought now.
IIRC, the derby cover inspection bolts specify in-lb torques. Get a properly rated wrench to do that and forget about trying to use the bottom end of a big ft-lb rated wrench. Why? Because any torque wrench will return accurate performance only in the middle portion of it's specified torque range. The bottom and top portions of the wrench's rated range will return inaccurate torque values. Having separate wrenches for in-lb and ft-lb uses as suggested by others is the best idea, IMO, and is the way I do it too.
I own several torque wrenches, one of which is a digital one, and it's my least favorite of the lot. It's just not always convenient to keep the digital display in your line of vision using the wrench.
Of the two you refer to, the 2-20 ft-lb one would be nearly useless IMO. Not nearly enough range, and probably only 10 ft-lb in the middle of the range would be accurate enough to trust.
Finally, be aware that spring-type torque wrenches should never be stored "loaded", they should always be unloaded before storage. They also need to be "worked" some before each use for accurate results.
There is a special variation of torque wrench that is unique in some useful ways. It's called the split-beam torque wrench, and I own this one which I use to tighten my 5th wheel trailer lug nuts to 120 ft-lbs. It does not require the "working in" prior to usage, which would be difficult to do on the side of the road somewhere.
Lots more to know about torque wrenches, but that enough food for thought now.
CDI Torque Wrenches
Do a search and you will find them at a reasonable price.
My big wrench is a Craftsman Digital for axles, sprockets, comps, etc.
My next wrench purchase will be a snap on old school digital (round dial) for the motor work I tend to do anymore on the side.
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