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I remove one bolt in each shock so the swing arm can go up.
As much as I have to adjust or remove the rear wheel I borrow the 36mm socket from auto zone, it takes a 1/2" drive. Once I have the tension adjusted I mark the position on the cams, lower the bike to access the nut and axle, hold the left welded nut with a channel lock and torque 60-65 flbs.
+1 - I think Harley sells the tool mainly to speed up wheel service by eliminating the need to remove the muffler, not to achieve better torque measurment. I just pull the right side muffler and lower the left side pipe with the muffler still attached. I bought a 1-7/16 socket and 3/4" breaker bar at Tractor Supply Co.
Rather than removing mufflers, which can be a real pain in the ***, try removing the lower shock bolts, loosen the tops, rotate the shocks back then tighten the top bolt to hold the shocks back. Now you can raise or lower the swing arm wherever you want either by lowering the frame jack or putting a floor jack under the tire.
Hope you can figure it how. If you put a 6" extender at 90 deg on the say 17 1/2" long torque wrench that just say reads 1-100 ft lbs. When you tighten it to say 50 on the scale, what do you really think it is? I actually think it is indead more since just crudly laying a pull tape on it, the distance from the handle pivot that is normally 17 1/2" to were the socket goes is now about 18 1/2" to the socket at the end of the extender. With it staright out it measures 23 1/2" and that really makes a difference. The extra inch at 90 probably affects it little. I know it alway went to same place before and is pretty much why I just use a box wrench and stop at my mark were I insert pin on my bike. Alway use torque wrench on others however since too tight will put a preload on bearing if you tighten it so tight you crush inner spacer sleeve. If you do that the bearings probably die in just a few months, especially of the single row Dynas. Harley was crazy to put them on a motorcycle. Surprised the have not killed somebody with them. Even done correctly they do not last long. A double row Softail bearing will go 100K and still look new. I have a set in a 03 Fatboy wheel setting in the garage with 100K and they still fill new , tight and spin free
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 30, 2012 at 03:59 PM.
It is really 50 since the extension is at a 90* perpendicular to the torque wrench. If the angle is off then the length and angle will increase or decrease the actual force applied to the nut/bolt being tightened depending on the length/angle of the extension.
With it being 1" longer with a desired torque of 50 you would need to set the wrench to 47.3
Last edited by Airborne350G; Apr 30, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
Expensive but fits the bill for quick and easy adjustments on every touring bike I have worked on.
My home made version cost me $7.00 and works great for getting the belt tension right on without loosening as you are trying to tighten the other side. I fabricated a lower shock washer that allows me to leave the tool held in place if I want.
It is really 50 since the extension is at a 90* perpendicular to the torque wrench. If the angle is off then the length and angle will increase or decrease the actual force applied to the nut/bolt being tightened depending on the length/angle of the extension.
With it being 1" longer with a desired torque of 50 you would need to set the wrench to 47.3
I did not really think by being at 90 it affected it and I had checked it with out and then with 90 and it appeared to be same. However with it at 90 it is 1" longer and I had actually though it was same untill I put pull tape on it and checked it today. However max is 65 and I watch for hole coming up and when it gets near the 60-65 torque I stop at the first hole I see. Been a while but I think mine hits about 50 when the first hole aligns. If I went to the next it probably would be over 65 to get it there. One thing you do not want to do is put torque wrench on hex end of axle that is fixed or welded to axle like a softail rear axle. Not sure if they all are. My softail front axle has two nuts plus clamp on slider. I always put torque wrench opposite clamped side. Now I am wondering why. Alo I switched my rear so I can pull it without removing muffler. Appears all softails come from factory like that. Not sure why Harley does that. No big deal to remove muffler as long as someone does not tighten the clamp too tight but most people overtighten the clamp and ring the muffler and some can be a real bear to pull out. Nut is not coming loose no matter what side it's on. Have had people say it might but that is not true.
Expensive but fits the bill for quick and easy adjustments on every touring bike I have worked on.
Does tightening that threaded piece actually move the axle or is it just to hold it in position once its there? Do you still need to use a wrench on the welded nut on the left side to adjust tension? That looks pretty cool! Should make it easier either way.
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