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FLHX front suspension

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Old May 1, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #1  
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Default FLHX front suspension

I recently rebuilt a 2010 street glide that had been wrecked. The front suspension tubes lowers and whole ball of wax were purchased off the wonderful ebay. the front suspension seems to be relatively soft as it drops several inches when just sitting on it. it also has bottomed out several times. as this happens the aftermarket crash bar leaves a dent in my 21 inch klock werks fender.. curious as to what needs to be done to fix this? to low of oil? Different springs? spacers in the tubes to cause more compression on springs?
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 03:24 PM
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Default flhx front suspension

hi first thing what lenght of tube you have . oem or after market. you may have ´1 inche there. if you brought tube from flhx. the damper in bottom tube are 1 inche shorter. so may be the reason for the fender to hit crash bar .is the crash bar mount correctely. no reason for the tube to compresse that much.10 oil ounce . each side. do you pump the spring when filling 5-7.5 10 .oil type . if you open the tube. top nut. the spring is about 1 inche longer than the tube .. check that .. add oil first test it if no better do the other thing.mrfuji
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 03:38 PM
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Default flhx front suspension

hi.this morning. i ask 1 question about.. engine trany rear whell adjustement.. on new frame. do you check that. ad no answer from forum . if you know. how to do this will appreciate mrfuji
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 04:19 PM
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I would definatelly change the oil. There are many posts in this forum on how to do it. Also, I believe you have to lower the front if you install 21" wheel. Again, many posts...
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 04:39 PM
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FLHX front end is the same as a standard glide, only the rear is lowered 1". If you hit your new fender then its too tall or the aftermarket crash bar is too low. If you want to keep the cool look of the big front tire, then you will have to accept some diminished comfort and performance from thr front end. I would first check to see what kind of interference you have when the forks are fully compressed, and find out if you can cheat the fender or crashbar in a favorable direction. If you have over 2" sag you need stiffer springs; you could add a spacer to the stock springs, but a spring rate that matches your weight would be much better.
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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i was locally told to add a pre load or a chunk of pvc to the top of my springs?
also as i read when i added fork oil i measured with a syringe to ensure accuracy but dumped the 10.4 oz in 2 oz at a time and capped it... i didn't add slowly or pump the forks? could this cause a problem or should i be attempting to re-change the oil or fix this some how?
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bufftuff
i was locally told to add a pre load or a chunk of pvc to the top of my springs?
also as i read when i added fork oil i measured with a syringe to ensure accuracy but dumped the 10.4 oz in 2 oz at a time and capped it... i didn't add slowly or pump the forks? could this cause a problem or should i be attempting to re-change the oil or fix this some how?
Could be your problem. you should be pumping the forks after you add the oil, then the final measurment is from the top of the tube, not the total volume added. You might pick up a service manual for a detailed description of the procedure. You can add a spacer, but the OEM progresive rate springs go from too soft to too stiff, no matter how much you weigh. Some use heavier oil but its kind of another band aid for a poor front suspension.
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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Do you happen to know what that measurement is? how far from the top should the oil level be in the forks?
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 08:43 PM
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5.59"
 
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