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Passing Lights not working

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Old May 3, 2012 | 05:21 AM
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Question Passing Lights not working

I had the dealer install HD passing lights on my Street Glide prior to taking delivery back in March. At the time, I just went with the regular Harley bulbs. I recently upgraded to the Trucklight Phase 7 Headlight and Passing Lights. Everything worked well after hook-up. Last weekend, I did the mod mentioned here on the forums where you switch two of the wires around in the harness so that the passing lights stay on when the high beams are turned on. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ee-w-pics.html

I tested it out right after and it worked as advertised. Last night I took my bike for a ride and the passing lights would not come on at all. Not sure if it is related to my recent mods or not. Even the switch to turn the passing lights on and off that typically has a green light when the switch is in the 'on' position is not lighting up now.

I checked all of the fuses related to anything lighting and acessories and they all appeared to be OK. I tried swapping each with the spare fuse and still nothing.

I swapped the wires in the harness back to their original configuration and that didn't do anything. I also tried hooking the harley bulbs back up and they didn't work either. I guess the problem is that the lights are just not getting power.

Any ideas of what my problem could be?

I can't say that i've paid much attention before to my voltage meter while riding, but on my way home tonight while riding it was consistantly at 16 volts. Without having paid attention before, that seems high. Not sure if it is related to the passing lamp issue (if 16 is high).
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 06:49 AM
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I would check the voltage with a voltage meter at the battery. Likely that the gauge is a bit off, but worth a look. I would bet my ride that if you were at 16 volts, you would have much more sensitive equipment giving out first, EG; radio, ECU, and the likes.
As far as the highway lights, you either fried a wire, or connection at some point in the circuit. Maybe the switch itself went bad. You didn't say if you had power at the switch or not after replacing the fuse, so I assume you do not have a voltage meter. First thing you need if you are going to work with electrical; a voltage meter. The $20 model from the local hardware guy will work just fine. Otherwise, you are just guessing.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 06:54 AM
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I did this mod to my Ultra and they quit working too. The problem was the yellow wire at the connector I guess when I was trying to get the wire out of the connector I opened it up too much
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:47 AM
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I would check the fuse again. It can be blown and hard to tell. When I did the light adjustment with my special home made socket, I pinched the grey wire when I put it back together. I was lazy and bought the HD harness. No power, no accessory light, etc. Fuse was blown but hard to see it. Replaced the wire, used liquid tape and shrink wrap and all is good now. What I did was aim my right led aux light a bit higher and slightly to the right for better visibility. Viz to be seen that is.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Thanks for all the good advice. I'll check into these things. I do have a voltmeter, so I can check that. I've been reading a lot of folks having issues with their voltage regulators, i'll have to read it again to see what the symptoms of that is.

Do you recall which fuse is tied to the passing lamps? Was it the one labeled "Accessory"? I'll try that again, although I did try replacing it with the spare and no luck.

I'm thinking I may have done the same thing as DWG1956 as it did take me a bit of monkeying around to figure out how to get the wires out of the connector.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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Also remember that LED light are pole sensitive. Pos has to be connected to the pos and neg to neg. An incandescent bulb does not care how the electricity passes through it, as it will still light up if you switch the wires.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Airborne350G
Also remember that LED light are pole sensitive. Pos has to be connected to the pos and neg to neg. An incandescent bulb does not care how the electricity passes through it, as it will still light up if you switch the wires.
I don't think that's the case as the OP stated that they work upon installation. If the +/- was not correct, they wouldn't have work in the first place. But this is a good point.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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I believe the T/L's have a rectifier built into the internal circuit. This over-rides the issue with polarity.

From reading the OP I would first check to see if you had power on the battery side of where you connected the yellow wire. If you do then the connection would seem to be the problem. If you don't I suggest you re-check the fuse. If the fuse is blown, this would suggest a loose connection or something is either grounding or shorting out in the circuit such as a pinched wire, bad connection.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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A VOM is your friend.
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dwg1956
I did this mod to my Ultra and they quit working too. The problem was the yellow wire at the connector I guess when I was trying to get the wire out of the connector I opened it up too much
Good tip. My problem was caused by same thing. I think I have it fixed.

Thanks!!
 
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