Crank work..Worth the money?
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Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 762
Likes: 14
From: Bellevue, NE
Crank work..Worth the money?
I have my motor partially dis-assembled for some heads and cam work. I wa thinking that as long as I've gone this far, maybe it might be a good time to think about improving the bottom end. So, I'm asking, if you've done it, aside from the confidence factor, did it lessen vibration, does the bike seem to pull effortlessly? In short, is it worth the additional labor / money? Thoughts, please. I know about the Harley change to .012 runout being within acceptable limits these days, but it seems like a lot to me, even though I don't know at this point what my actual runout is. Thanks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 26
depends on what your runout is. Mine was at .009 when I did my BB kit and didnt feel comfortable going forward with BB so I sent crank to Rev Perf. If your runout is below .003 or .004 I probably wouldnt do it. Dont underestimate the value of confidence ..;-) find out what your runout is and go from there. For me YES it was worth it.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I would do a run out check and see how far it is out. If the run out is only a couple thousands out and you are going to baby the bike, then I would leave it alone. But, if you are going to beat on the bike and like hard down shifting. It would be wise to have the crank trued and welded by Rev or Darkhorse. You may want to look at it like a insurance policy. It would be smarter to do it now and never have to worry about the fly wheels shifting, then tearing it back down later.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: IN / AL
As an overview which might give you some info to search the web for. The HD crank is pressed together and the pieces can come out of true leading to runout.
The crankpin gets plugged and welded and the left side output shaft bearing is converted to a Timken bearing.
This is all I "think" I know about it...
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
Doing a mild 103 now. After 28,000 run-out only .002 so I left it alone. if it was over 3-5 I would have had the crank done. It's more about strength, crank bearings, cam end-plate, oil pump, and trans bearing wear than any performance gain. Of course it could scissor at any time???
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I hope that makes sense!
Welding involves welding where the wrist-pin mates with each flywheel, to prevent movement in use. A great idea for the drag strip, less important IMHO on the street.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,780
Likes: 69
From: Al Bu Ker Key, New Mexico
Thanks for the explanations so far! Wow! Sure wish there was some kind of 3D animated video or something that would show these parts in operation. Flywheel, wrist-pin, stub-axle, etc.......might as well be speaking in Chinese (no pun intended)
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Joe Kucinski
Unofficial HDF Chaplain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,160
Likes: 18,083
From: san diego
worth every penny, not only will it keep your motor alive a whole lot longer, it will make it smoother, and actually more efficient running, you can make it nearly bulletproof with some extra work such as a timkin left side brg. I highly recommend it for any "newer" bikes 07 and up especially. I waited 1 year for my 09 110 to go out, it didn't so I took it apart on my dime and did it all. recommend getting the h-beam rods to get rid of that crappy wrist pin bushing setup on the newer bikes, you will have to machine the inside of your pistons to make it fit but that is easy
