Look behind each spark plug in your engine. See the passage that goes through to the other side? That's directly over the combustion chamber and one the hottest parts of the exterior of your engine. The wards fans direct airflow through there. Ask yourself if blowing air between the cylinders is better. Not likely IMHO. I've had my Wards kit on about 6 weeks and couldn't be happier. As for the temp probe it screws in pretty deep into the rear cylinder head so any air flowing over it would have a neglible effect.

 

Actually the WPW FCS does not really blow on the ET sensor, it directs the air to blow through the channels behind the spark plugs so that it is blowing across the top of the head so that the head is cooled. The head is the largest heat sink on the engine, so cooling the heads will do the most good. This is why the MOCO decided to cool only the heads on the Twin Cooled motors. The cylinders do a good job of cooling by air. If anything, and I don't really know all the specs on the Jims unit, but if it uses only one fan blowing between the cylinders then it would be blowing way more air on the ET sensor than WPW FCS does. The main thing that shows that the FCS works is that if your motor has been going into ETMS mode, it quits doing that after installing the FCS. If you want to research it go here: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...tem-again.html
It will give you the low down on the FCS from the development stage.

 

Nice to see options out there, but I like the looks of Jason's better. I've had mine for two years now and they work great, zero problems. By far the single best cooling accessory I've used.

 

OK, so what is your initial assessment? I really didn't think we would have to beg for it, but if that's what it takes, what is your opinion Oh exalted one LOL!!!

 

it's still sitting in the garage. Meetings yesterday so had to dress like a professional and dr appt. today.. I'll let you know for sure tomorrow.

 

Surely it is not still sitting in that garage, is it?

 

Nope.. :-)

I'll post pics and my comments in the morning. I actually modified the install a bit.

 

I tied a Lenale fan with the Wards fan system to my bike, it runs on the temperature sensor from Wards, I also have a Harley Oil cooler, my bike temps are around 200 plus on an average riding day, the outside temps vary, but still the engine temps are 200.
My engine temps are based on oil Temperature, not head temps.
I modified my LeNale fan a little, I put silicone around several parts that vibrate loose or break to give the fan a longer life.
It's kinda weird, when I get off my bike, those fans run for several minutes afterwards, till the head temps recede. With convection head, they will run on and off for several minutes. Am I happy with the system, you betcha!
Haven't been on this site for a while, been working on my F350 project.

 

You run 3 fans? Lenale plus Wards??

 

ok so here's what I did. Got the fan kit, took about 5 minutes to figure out how to mount with the stock horn. So knocked that out in literally about 15 - 20 minutes and that included taking the tank off. Easy stuff. I didn't (see other post above) get the opportunity to test it out fully because well life kinda got in the way for a few days.

So not being happy with this new incredible new POS horn that HD came out with in 14 I decided to go back to Mini Beast to answer that need. Custom Dynamics now owns mini-beast. So looked around and decided based on a pic from another mod here (Mr Wizard) of his setup that I wanted the Mini Beast 1. ordered that and got it on it's way. Once it came in I was like holy crap this thing is much bigger than it looked in the pics I'd seen. This horn posed another issue for me. No way, no how was this going to mount in a standard way with the Wards fan kit so off to the think tank. I was given an idea from the same mod with the horn to use a shoulder nut on the existing rubber bushing horn mount. Yeah well that wasn't good enough for me because that was too easy and sometimes I just like to complicate things. After a few minutes and mostly looking at the bushing and the way it mounted to the horn mount attached to the heads, it struck me. 5/16 x18 threaded rod from Lowes, a few lock washers, a couple of spacer washers, a couple of lock nuts and finish off with the same acorn stock horn nut.

So here goes.
Removed old horn bushing from bike. I took an old horn bushing I had in the drawer. Put it in a vise and cut off one side of the stud with my grinder. Then took a 11/32" bit and drilled out the remaining side. This gave me a nice 11/32" hole through and through for the threaded rod.



Then I took part # 44591 5/16" x 18 threaded rod from Lowes, put a dab of red Loctite on the end of it and threaded into the stock horn bushing mount bracket then slid on the stock rubber bushing. I left enough sticking out the back of the bracket to allow for the installation of a lock nut with red Loctite. This locked the rod in place and it won't move.



then I slide the fan kit in place and measured distance from fans to head fins. this is important to follow manufacturer specs so fans don't hit heads while motor running. I used (2) 5/16" fender washers to space it away from the bushing to the proper distance away from head fins and using red Loctite but another washer, lock washer, and lock nut in place securing the fan to the bushing/rod. (sorry for blurry pic)



Then I simply slid the horn in place, measured how much threaded rod I needed for the finish. Marked the rod, threaded a nut on to be able to cut the threads properly coming back off and cut the rod with the trusty ole dremel.





being the **** retentive guy that I am with exposed wiring, all wires were heat shrunk, extended as needed, and run into the wiring channel for proper terminations.



mounted horn, finished up wiring, and tested horn before putting things back together. One note to mention on the thermostat mounting itself. I extended the wires that Jason sent with the thermostat switch and relocated it to the right side of the motor behind the throttle body. Again this was an idea that I discussed with Wiz because IMO and Wiz's as well, if the thermostat is mounted in the location that Jason suggests then the fans would be blowing right on it therefore providing for more on and off activity of the fans and false cooling of the thermostat, possibly shortening their life. So moving it to the right side of the rear head, the fan comes on as it should and then goes off as it should although my temp readings from my fluke temp meter were a bit different than what's printed in the instruction manual. My fans turn on @ 208° and turn off @ 134° consistently. That could simply be my vertical mounting of the switch instead of laying it flat. I also did not use any type of adhesive, simply pushing/slightly forcing the temp switch in place between the fins with only pressure using your finger will not allow the switch to move






so after install this is what I found and no I didn't do as detailed a job as the other guy who posted data on this fan setup. This was not a scientific test, simply real world.

So started the bike up with TTS connected to measure engine temp and simply let it idle. Outside ambient temp was 84°. At 208° consistently (fluke an tts were within 2° of each other) the fans kicked on and I let it idle for about 30 minutes after fans kicked in just to see how high temp would climb. 241° was the highest engine temp measured after 30 minutes of idling and oil temp climbed to 209°. Turned the bike off and 11 minutes later the temp dropped from 241° to 134° with the fans cooling as they should. That's impressive if you ask me. So my overall experience is this is a GREAT addition. Good work Jason and thank you Wiz for bouncing ideas back and forth.