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My indie mechanic suggested cams to go along with headers, mufflers and A/C I was already planning to install. I need to read up and not sure where to start. Any help pointing me in the right direction is much appreciated.
They've got a lot of dyno charts posted so you can compare torque curves. The Woods 555 cam seems to be the most popular cam on these forums. From what I've read it works great with a stage 1 setup and also is a good grind for future mod's as well. If you look at their dyno charts you'll see it has a nice, flat torque curve that comes on early. That's what you want for a rider (as opposed to a drag racer) where you spend most of your time in the mid-range.
My indy suggusted SE 204 Cams. What do you guys think about that one? Seen it a few times posted here and the folks that have them seem to like it. I ride single most times between 2000-4000 rpms and not aggresive. Do not want to sacrifice fuel mileage too much. Ride has about 32M miles on her and will probably need to crack her open this winter to change the inner tensioner.
SE204's (or many aftermarket cams with similar specs) are one of the best all around cams you'll find.
Interesting. I haven't seen this mass-exodus or anything even close. Could you provide some links to threads showing this?
Heck, I could point to most any of your responses in cam threads as evidence of the "mass-exodus". One of the favorable attributes you often cite for SE255's is their almost constant availability on the used market.
Compression ratio is one of the most important considerations when choosing a cam, and it usually gets very brief mention in most cam threads. Possibly because many people don't understand how a cam interacts with static compression resulting in corrected compression, which greatly determines how your engine runs.
At the risk of being too simplistic:
An earlier intake valve close will raise (relatively) corrected compression. When done conservatively this results in low rpm torque. It can also result in extra cranking pressure, heat, and ignition problems. Early intake close cams work best in engines with relatively low static compression.
The SE255 has an incredibly early intake close. It works well in 96" engines (9.2:1 compression). It was designed for 110" engines with even lower compression (9.15:1). I wouldn't put them in any engine with higher compression than 9.2:1 although some do and report they like the results. If your bike has a 103" (9.6:1 compression) I'd stay away from a SE255 for these reasons. If you might do engine work at a later time that would result in higher compression, ditto.
An engine with higher compression is easier to pick a cam for IMHO. It will react favorably to a broader range of cams. It will tolerate a hotter cam at lower rpm's while giving you an incredibly fun, powerful midrange.
Someone mentioned that "over" caming an engine is one of the easiest mistakes a guy can make. I agree. However, considering specific engine parameters, it is also easy to "undercam" an engine.
My advice: Read, read and read some more. Also do not get caught up in the brand name wars. ALL cam manufactures produce cams all across the performance spectrum. It's the cam's specs that matter, not what logo is on the box.
Oh... I almost forgot, Screamin' Eagle cams are not "smog cams". You'll hear that one a lot from ignorant posters too. Screamin' Eagle, like all manufactures, make cams from fairly mild, to all out race cams that perform very badly on the street.
At the end of the day, it's going to be important that you decide on the cam that fits your riding style, the cam that gives you the most torque in your normal RPM range, and unless you plan on other engine mods (valves, springs, gaskets, lifters, etc.) , one that can be "bolted in" to your stock configuration.
It's really not relevant what cam the indy likes, although there is nothing wrong with a nice discussion about his likes/dislikes. When you find the cam you want, and your indy's preference is somewhere else, it may be time to find a new indy. Just make sure you do your homework.
And as said before, don't get taken-in by all of the posted dyno charts you see for the various cams. Cams are a single element in the motor, not the all in all. Some of those charts are designed to sell cams to a testosterone driven market....and I must say they have been quite effective based on what I see posted from time to time.
Thanks for all your feedback!!! This is exactly what I was hoping for. This gives me a better understanding and a great place to start my research. Keep it coming if you don't mind. I'm not looking to be the fasted bike on the highway. Good torque in the 2000 - 4000 (4500) range I think would be good but I've only been riding it for about 800 mi. I'll be riding solo and I weigh about 160lbs. I'll probably be riding the twisties in the Mountains at about 35 to 55 mph more than I'll be taking long trips on the interstate.
dschock, you are going to get 100+ opinions here, and many of these will be just opinions based on "what I have in my bike is best". My suggestion is call a few of the builders and discuss what you want to do, how you ride, etc. and let them help you. Fuel Moto, Woods, Drago's, Roeder Racing are a few that come to mind, they will point you in the right direction and all are very willing to help only for the cost of your time. Then call me in and I'll tell you what I run, because that IS THE BEST! Hahaha! Just kidding, but it is the best FOR ME.
I am doing a 103 right now. Got the SE stage 2 kit cheap sold the 255 cams and AC. Got a Andrews 54h. I don't know why anyone would install 255s??? Intake is so lazy there is nothing up top. I didn't go to the woods 555/777 or S&S 570 because they alittle hot and without headwork wasted, plus they need springs. The 54h was cheaper and I've always had good luck with Andrews. I am bumping compression so I think/hope it will be a good compromise. I do ride solo and am told aggressive? Told Andrews is coming out with a new cam for the 103s?
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