Looking for suggestions - 95" Rebuild
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, Fl.
Looking for suggestions - 95" Rebuild
Specs for my bike are in my signature, but I have a Stage 2, 95" Screamin Eagle upgrade. Bike has 69,000 Miles.
Want to re-do the top end soon. Never replaced the cam chain shoes either. OEM clutch and throttle cables are also original.
It does have a new stator, fuel filter/regulator, drive belt, etc.
Question is:
Want to re-do the top end soon. Never replaced the cam chain shoes either. OEM clutch and throttle cables are also original.
It does have a new stator, fuel filter/regulator, drive belt, etc.
Question is:
- whether or not I can do a 103 upgrade"
- if so, what should I consider?
- if not, what else should I do other than top end?
Former Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,968
Likes: 54
you CAN do a 103" upgrade if you want to get your cases bored. Is ti worth it? Nah. Get some nice hi flow heads and the screaming eagle cam plate upgrade with a set of cams and you will feel a nice bit of difference.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, Kentucky
thoughts?
I have a 95 upgrade and my bike screams.... routinely take down 103's etc. Is your bike not fast enough? If it were me.. I could get a lot more smiles per dollar with other upgrades...
just my 2 cents...
just my 2 cents...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 20
From: Indy
I don't know what it is, but 95" motors make more power with less, you can get in the 80hp range with just a small cam change, put heads on it, and the right cam and they will go in the 100hp range.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 885
Likes: 14
From: SoCal
Specs for my bike are in my signature, but I have a Stage 2, 95" Screamin Eagle upgrade. Bike has 69,000 Miles.
Want to re-do the top end soon. Never replaced the cam chain shoes either. OEM clutch and throttle cables are also original.
It does have a new stator, fuel filter/regulator, drive belt, etc.
Question is:
Want to re-do the top end soon. Never replaced the cam chain shoes either. OEM clutch and throttle cables are also original.
It does have a new stator, fuel filter/regulator, drive belt, etc.
Question is:
- whether or not I can do a 103 upgrade"
- if so, what should I consider?
- if not, what else should I do other than top end?
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
However your mileage has built up and I can't help thinking that a serious injection of power from head work will not go down too well with your crank and bearings. You mention things are getting rattly, something we cannot easily size up over the 'net, so it might be worth asking a local expert to cast an ear over it. Rattles could be a lifter, which is easily replaced, or something needing more serious surgery.
If you have a good indy it would be well worth talking through the options he can offer, while he listens to your rattle. Summer is not a good time to be doing this, as everyone wants their bike on the road, so if your bike is OK hold out on mods until later in the year.
Last edited by grbrown; Jun 6, 2012 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Grammar!
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 9,384
Likes: 1,776
From: Central Texas
If you only want to go top end check out some of the 98 CI kits.
Basicly it is a 95 kit boared to the max. you will be 2 CI over the 96
and have a shorter stroke which means you will get off the line a little
quicker contact Fuel Moto USA and check this out.
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/98kit.htm
Basicly it is a 95 kit boared to the max. you will be 2 CI over the 96
and have a shorter stroke which means you will get off the line a little
quicker contact Fuel Moto USA and check this out.
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/98kit.htm
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 624
What cams were included in your Stage 2 95" kit when you did it? If you want more power then you need to know where you are at right now and what the total parts list is.
If it were my bike here is the order in which I would do things before I decided to tear it down.
Figure out what the source of the "rattle" is.
Do a compression test
Do a leak down test
Determine crankshaft TIR
If the rattle source is something easily replaced (ie loose rocker shafts etc) and the ccp and leak down test show the engine to be in good health and the crank runout is good then I would fix the rattle and ride on.
If anything points to something internally needing to be addressed, then put a performance goal and budget in place and start shopping. Lots of options for good reliable performance.
Zach
If it were my bike here is the order in which I would do things before I decided to tear it down.
Figure out what the source of the "rattle" is.
Do a compression test
Do a leak down test
Determine crankshaft TIR
If the rattle source is something easily replaced (ie loose rocker shafts etc) and the ccp and leak down test show the engine to be in good health and the crank runout is good then I would fix the rattle and ride on.
If anything points to something internally needing to be addressed, then put a performance goal and budget in place and start shopping. Lots of options for good reliable performance.
Zach