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it happened on my 11 flhrc at 7500 miles...covered by warrenty...they said you can take it off and take a hack saw and widen the slot and then it will tighten up (but they replaced it anyway)..
to the OP dont know what bike you have but dealer tried to tighten mine (i told them i already did that) but it was back in the next day to have the thing replaced under warranty. & yes the primary does have to come off.
if you have a warranty dont let them tell you that you need a new clutch like they did me. PFFFF 9K & i need a clutch already I DONT THINK SO.
With the shift linkage off, it looks like i might be able to get the lever off the shaft.
I was going to comment on the two piece replacement, but I see just above that modes posted the actual video of it.
If under warrentee, get it done at the dealership they may discover other items needing repair and could even replace seals and gaskets. The inner primary seal is a PITA to change out and you could even request fresh seals, gaskets and that notorious inner primary bearing, maybe paying out of pocket along with the warrentee work. I say anytime you have this apart add the seals and gaskets to limit headaches in the near future. Once this area is opened up it can have multiple leak points.
Regarding the new clutch ... all is needed is to measure the discs, the plates and the entire assembly to discover if worn to the point of needing replacement. Of course there are visible signs too. And even smells can tell you if the clutch has been burning up / worn out.
BTW this is a key factor to look at when looking at used bikes. Some are so bad that shifting is very complicated by the worn out parts. Worse yet is when the shift shaft on the tranny has been damaged and you have to open up the tranny and replace the shaft itself.
Take the allen bolt out and replace with a regular bolt, you'll be able to get alot more leverage to tighten it down with a socket. Solves the problem most of the time.
I dont know what year hes working on but on mine theres no way to get your hands let alone any kind of hand grinder in there without removing the primary case around it. I have to lift the bike approx 12-15" crawl under it and look up at it forget doing any kind of surgery? Hes grinding a lever on a flat surface hence the way the video panes away from the left exhaust pipe from three dimensions to a one dimention
Take the allen bolt out and replace with a regular bolt, you'll be able to get alot more leverage to tighten it down with a socket. Solves the problem most of the time.
I had a bolt all ready for that. There was no way the lever range of motion wouldnt hit the bolt head on the primary casing. I rounded the bolt head edges so it would clear but the OEM bolt was on so tight I was afraid of snapping it off so I put the project on a back burner. Maybe they solved the problem on my year bike cuz that fracker was tight!
I had a bolt all ready for that. There was no way the lever range of motion wouldnt hit the bolt head on the primary casing. I rounded the bolt head edges so it would clear but the OEM bolt was on so tight I was afraid of snapping it off so I put the project on a back burner. Maybe they solved the problem on my year bike cuz that fracker was tight!
Try a little heat if you have a heat gun, eles soak with penetrating oil and use a socket allen to get it off. I've really had to crank on that allen bolt but never broke one. They seem tight but I think they just bind up after being in there for a while. That's interesting that a regular bolt wouldn't work, I've replaced them on 08 and earlier years. Use blue locktite when putting new bolt back in,
Only long term solution to this problem is to replace every thing or it will happen over and over again don't want to have the same experience again in the middle of no where.
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