shift rod linkage at rear shift shaft?
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 9
From: NorCal
shift rod linkage at rear shift shaft?
Does yours have excessive play from side to side and is it able to move side to side on the shift shaft teeth? I can shimmy mine left to right on the teeth, curious if thats normal.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 5
Had the same problem on my son's 02 RK. The shift lever teeth are worn and will no longer grip the splines of the transmission shift shaft. No amount of tightening will fix the problem. Only fix is to replace and on older models like the 02 this will require a complete removal of the primary and inner cover. On newer models the inner cover has an indentation that allows for the lever to slide all the way off the shaft and the new lever to be slid on without removing the primary drive and covers. A big time saver! Search this forum for more info as this is a common problem.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 9
From: NorCal
holy ****! bike is less than a year old with 11,000 miles.
There's been a squeeking noise thats been consistently getting worse and this is the only thing that i can find. It only squeeks on rough roads or when hitting small bumps. i've checked every other bolt and piece of hardware on the bike. If this isnt the cause of the squeeking i am glad i found this now.
I put an allen on the bolt and its tight, by hand, so the teeth must be worn as you said. The splines on the shift shaft, when i slide the lever all the way to the primary, look okay. The splines look very small though.
I cant seem to find the fix/replacement for this in the service manual, anybody?
Is this covered by warranty????
There's been a squeeking noise thats been consistently getting worse and this is the only thing that i can find. It only squeeks on rough roads or when hitting small bumps. i've checked every other bolt and piece of hardware on the bike. If this isnt the cause of the squeeking i am glad i found this now.
I put an allen on the bolt and its tight, by hand, so the teeth must be worn as you said. The splines on the shift shaft, when i slide the lever all the way to the primary, look okay. The splines look very small though.
I cant seem to find the fix/replacement for this in the service manual, anybody?
Is this covered by warranty????
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 739
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
The bolt cannot create enough compression to take up the slack created by the worn shifter splines. Try this...take the lever off the bike, place it in a vice and gently squeeze it until the inside diameter closes up a bit. It's a little hit and miss, but keep doing this until it will just fit over the tranny shift shaft. You want it to be as snug as possible so the bolt doesn't have to work as hard. Squirt a little Loctite on the bolts threads and tighten the Hell out of it. It's a grade 8 bolt so it will handle quite a bit of torque. It worked for me.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
to the OP dont know what bike you have but dealer tried to tighten mine (i told them i already did that) but it was back in the next day to have the thing replaced under warranty. & yes the primary does have to come off.
if you have a warranty dont let them tell you that you need a new clutch like they did me. PFFFF 9K & i need a clutch already I DONT THINK SO.
if you have a warranty dont let them tell you that you need a new clutch like they did me. PFFFF 9K & i need a clutch already I DONT THINK SO.
If my memory is correct, the OEM lever is made from compressed powered metal.
My 1st OEM stock lever stripped on at 12,000 miles & was replaced under warranty
The 2nd OEM lever stripped out at 17,000 miles and the SM asked me if they could replace it with a chromed forged steel unit from the Drag Spec book. Its been in there for 11,000 miles & is as tight as when installed.
It should be a warranty item, mine was 2 times.
My 1st OEM stock lever stripped on at 12,000 miles & was replaced under warranty
The 2nd OEM lever stripped out at 17,000 miles and the SM asked me if they could replace it with a chromed forged steel unit from the Drag Spec book. Its been in there for 11,000 miles & is as tight as when installed.
It should be a warranty item, mine was 2 times.
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 739
Likes: 2
From: St. Louis
If my memory is correct, the OEM lever is made from compressed powered metal.
My 1st OEM stock lever stripped on at 12,000 miles & was replaced under warranty
The 2nd OEM lever stripped out at 17,000 miles and the SM asked me if they could replace it with a chromed forged steel unit from the Drag Spec book. Its been in there for 11,000 miles & is as tight as when installed.
It should be a warranty item, mine was 2 times.
My 1st OEM stock lever stripped on at 12,000 miles & was replaced under warranty
The 2nd OEM lever stripped out at 17,000 miles and the SM asked me if they could replace it with a chromed forged steel unit from the Drag Spec book. Its been in there for 11,000 miles & is as tight as when installed.
It should be a warranty item, mine was 2 times.
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Road Captain
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 745
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From: Sacramento
y a me neither, wish i would have known & would have sprung for the difference
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 6
From: Auburn, WA
to the OP dont know what bike you have but dealer tried to tighten mine (i told them i already did that) but it was back in the next day to have the thing replaced under warranty. & yes the primary does have to come off.
if you have a warranty dont let them tell you that you need a new clutch like they did me. PFFFF 9K & i need a clutch already I DONT THINK SO.
if you have a warranty dont let them tell you that you need a new clutch like they did me. PFFFF 9K & i need a clutch already I DONT THINK SO.
Glad the dealer I go to is not like some that you read about.
Last edited by Wv7o; Jun 7, 2012 at 12:16 AM.