Background: 42 year rider, first Harley (FLHX) two months and 2,000 miles ago.
Riding down the interstate to work last Friday, doing about 80, the bike quits. Not sputters and quits, just quits like I hit the kill switch. I coast to the side of the road, and notice that the oil light is on, so I figure I ought to check it and all is well there. I figure maybe I lost the oil pump, but never heard any unusual sounds so I thought I'd see if she would start and she fired right up and made good pressure so I headed up the road without further problems. I've put maybe 50 miles on since then and no further incidents. I have a FuelPak on the bike, and have reseated the connections there as that was my #1 suspect. Anyone else had this sort of behavior?

 

Many many times the interface of a piggyback tuner has been blamed for stuff like this- the sensor inputs to the ECM are interrupted.

or it can be the data "translation" in the tuner.

keep an eye on this and IF you have to go to the dealer for warranty service, take the thing off the bike.

Mike

ps my "Authentic Harley Experience" is hundreds of thousands of miles on Pans, Shovels, Evos and TC's with no untoward problems.

 

Same thing happened to mt 12fatboy. Turned out to be a bad ECM

 

My 2000 EGC was doing that and I just replaced the start/kill switch. They had one in stock at the dealer which tells me there may be an issue with these.



cheers

 

just for future reference, if you have the ignition on, and engine not running, the oil light will be on. as far as your sending unit and ecm know, the oil pump is not pumping the volume of oil it should be (no kidding, it aint running ) so the light stays on.... always good to check the oil anyway in a situation like that.

 

This happened to me on my 04 Road King. Running down the road and 'poof', everything quit. Same behavior as if I'd switched off the Run/Kill switch. The moment I toggled (off...on) the Run/Kill and hit the starter button, I was back in business per 'normal'. The same thing happened twice, in the span of 200 miles. After the second episode (and checking everything I could think of) I replaced the Run/Kill switch and the problem hasn't repeated in several thousand miles...

After I removed the switch, I measured and there was just the slightest difference between 'on' and 'off', electrically, per my DVM. That is, I only needed to move the switch a fraction from the Run position for the contacts to go 'open'.

On any bike, stuff that's tucked away safe-and-warm on a car is exposed to the elements. Plus, I don't know if you've noticed yet, being a 'new guy' and all--but our bikes shake a little bit...

Hopefully, this type of inexplicable one-off event won't become your characteristic Harley experience. I know I've had pretty good luck in 50K+ miles with mine, with just a very few WTF's along the way...

Alan