2010 transmission problems
Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 106
Likes: 1
From: Brisbane, Australia
transmission
There has been a trans problem all you have to do is search for in on the forums. There was even a Service Bulletin M-1284 that changes the belt tension. This is a cut from it.
All Other Touring Models 3/8-7/16 9.5-11.1 3/8-9/16 9.5-14.3
From what I can tell from reading and from experiance alot of people have had the issue when running SYN-3. If you pull the trans clutch acttivator cover on the right side of the trans and see gray sludge or metal fileings then you will know you have a main drive gear bearing problem. Some of the ones not having problems are running 75w-140, 85w-140 synthetic gear oil any brand but the MOCO oil.
Table 1. Drive Belt Deflection Specifications Change: 2009 and Later Touring Models
MODELS PREVIOUS (Typical) NEW
in mm in mm
FLHX, FLTRX 1/4-5/16 6.4-7.9 1/4-7/16 6.4-11.1
MODELS PREVIOUS (Typical) NEW
in mm in mm
FLHX, FLTRX 1/4-5/16 6.4-7.9 1/4-7/16 6.4-11.1
All Other Touring Models 3/8-7/16 9.5-11.1 3/8-9/16 9.5-14.3
From what I can tell from reading and from experiance alot of people have had the issue when running SYN-3. If you pull the trans clutch acttivator cover on the right side of the trans and see gray sludge or metal fileings then you will know you have a main drive gear bearing problem. Some of the ones not having problems are running 75w-140, 85w-140 synthetic gear oil any brand but the MOCO oil.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Are you sure most people understand the setting of the drive belt tension?
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.
While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.
While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.
Last edited by Expat1; Jul 4, 2012 at 03:08 AM.
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 89
From: Vermont
Are you sure most people understand the setting of the drive belt tension?
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.
While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.
When we apply the tension gage against the belt, the belt naturally sags by gravity and needs to move upwards by 1/16" to 1/8" to start compressing/moving the spring of the gage. Applying the load of 10 lbs is easy and so is measuring 3/8" deflection (three notches on the window of the lower belt cover). But where/when do you start measuring this deflection?
If you consider the complete deflection of the belt as you apply the gage, the belt is set too tight; if you compensate sag with one finger then apply the preload of the gage, the belt is less tensioned.
I would suggest having two lines on the gage:
- one line to preload and set the starting point of the measurement
- the second line (10lbs) as we have now.
While riding next to something solid I could hear a whine coming from the left side when the bike was new and discovered my belt was way too loose!
I set the belt twice as described above: according to the manual it became very tight and by compensating the initial sag it seems to be fine. The increase of load on the transmission and clutch bearings between these two belt settings becomes enormous when you take into account the expansion of the rear pulley as it heats up.
I don't quite understand how you are compensating for initial sag. (The one finger method?) Can you please elaborate a little? Thanks
Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Spokane Valley, Washington State
Yes. In my case, it was because the compensator failed and the automatic primary ajustor continued taking up the slack as the compensator became more worn which put a ton of pressure on the main bearings on the tranny.
Changed the compensator to the SE version and replaced the tranny bearings and all was fine for another 25000 miles.
Though now, I have also upgraded to the Baker DD7 tranny. Just cause I wanted one.
Changed the compensator to the SE version and replaced the tranny bearings and all was fine for another 25000 miles.
Though now, I have also upgraded to the Baker DD7 tranny. Just cause I wanted one.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
I had a bearing fail over Memorial Day weekend. I was 200 miles from home in Louisville KY. I noticed it was whining loudly when downshifting. It would get really loud in first gear with the clutch in. Dealer said they have seen one the week before. I thought he said it was behind the clutch.. I don't remember exactly which bearing it was.. My dealer came that night at 11 pm and got my bike and brought me one to borrow for the rest of the 3 day weekend! Pretty awesome!
2010 Street Glide. Had 31,400 at time of fail.
2010 Street Glide. Had 31,400 at time of fail.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 4
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Either too loose or too tight the belt produces a particular 'sound'. The sound completely disappears when I slightly pre-tension the belt (in the upwards direction) before applying the 10 lbs force to verify belt deflection with the gage.
The bike is cold now (it's 10:30PM) and I observed 1/8" total sag.
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