I'm with Rickr01 on this one. I've got the FM header, Jackpot 4" dynotune mufflers, FM intake and a Powervision with one of FMs canned maps and it runs awesome. I'm in MN which is very similar in climate and elevation to where Fuel Moto is located but I don't know if that would make much of a difference.
Very happy with it how it runs now and the MPG I'm getting not to mention it's got more snap and won't BBQ your leg anymore.

 

dyno will allow them to do a custom map that will give you best performance probably around 300 bucks

 

Try the map from F/M first.
When you do cams then dyno.

 

I'd bet Jamie would be the first to acknowledge that his canned maps are not optimum tunes, and they shouldn't be due to variances in engine assembly from HD, gas quality, and other variables relevant to engine tuning.

Carl

 

My dealer is usually $380
1 hour labor ($80 per) for hook up and 3 hours ($100 per) tuning

 

I don't know why you wouldn't do dyno work. Often the gain from the dyno is as much as the gain from the work you've just paid for plus you get no reduction in reliability (and actually possible improvements)

 

If a dyno tune is going to be hard on the bike, then why is it recommended for optimum performance. Heck, even the dealers do dyno tuning.
Yeah, there may have been a machine that someone heard from a friend about that came apart while on the dyno, but the motor was probably ready to blow anyway.
The bike is built to hit the RPMs up past the 6K mark. Heck, ya ever watch the tach when you're racing your buddies or showing off to the high school girls. OMG, it might blow up, right?

 

I've done both, canned maps and dyno tunes. I don't disagree with the canned map, if you are happy with how it performs, save your money. However, having done both, I'll go with the dyno tune if done by a competent tuner. Like others said, you're investing money in upgrades to get peak performance, why not take full advantage of the money you spent on all those upgrades?

 

Autotuners are the way to go. PC-V or PV with autotune or a ThunderMax. With a manual tune, every time you change something on the drive train, you have to have the motor tuned again. With an Autotuner, you don't.

Unless you are building a "race engine" for the track, it's pointless to chase the tiny numbers you will gain with a manual tune....and that's providing you can find a competent tuner that understands timing. Most tuners will only tune the A/F ratio by adjusting the fuel tables, they don't change timing because they don't know how or the call backs due to pinging.

My autotuner works flawless!

 

You are going to own the Power Vision. No need to dyno the bike.
The power Vision is a pretty powerful tool that many do not use to it's potential.
The Power Vision will tune your bike just like a dyno but better. With the PV, you make "tuning runs", usually 15 to 30 minute rides in real world conditions, on the road, with you riding it.
Once you get back home, you load the data you just recorded from the PV onto your PC, use the PV software to calculate the new tune from the log data and you are done.

After that, you can go and log more tuning runs when you have time and tweak the tune even further.

If you are buying the Power Vision just to run a canned map from FM? You are wasting your money. You would be better off with a Power commander instead of the PV.

You can get pretty close to perfect tune with PV without the wear and tear of hours on a dyno by someone who may or may not get it right.
Will you get a tune that is exactly the same as what a tuner with get for you on a dyno? No, but no two tuners will have the exact same tune on the same bike.
When you go out and log data in a tuning run? You are basically doing the same thing the indy does with a dyno. You are measuring the VE ( volumetric efficiency ) of the engine. The o2 sensors measure the actuall AFR and determines the correct needed AFR compaired to the programmed data in the ECM via the map you are running. You calculate the new map with the tuning software and load it back into the bike.
Now you have a MAP tuned specifically to your bike. You can now repeat the process and dial it in even closer with each tuning run or if you are happy with the way it runs, leave it be and enjoy.
But you will have a tune that is right for the conditions and mods on your bike and it will be tuned pretty damn accurately using the bikes OEM O/2 sensors.
And the good part is, you can then change your AFR to whatever you please and find an AFR that is right for the way you ride. No further tuning is needed just changing the AFR values, the tune will still be accurate running rich as is was running lean when you tuned it.

And you can re-tune the bike your self when ever you change pipes or mufflers instead of having to pay an indy to tune it again!

I am a firm believer in the PV now. It took a little learning to figure it all out but it really is pretty easy once you get it.

It might sound like I am trying to sell you on PV. But all I am saying is try the power Vision first before spending $$ on a dyno, you will be pleasantly surprised!