I've done the stage one upgrade on my 2011 FLH-TK {Screaming Eagle Air Cleaner Element, SE slip on mufflers} and had Dr. Dyno install a Fuel Moto Power Commander V and tune the bike. This was my attempt to make the bike run cooler through proper fuel/air mixture and tuning. It does run better and cooler. HP went from 69.55 to 79.15 and torque went from 86.48 to 94.15, which I didn't mind. But I'm still getting alot of heat from the headers and am wondering what would be the best way to go. True duals, 2 into 1, or ceramic coated 2-1-2's? I'm not looking for more horse power but won't throw it out of bed for eating crackers. I just want the most cost effective way to cool this 103ci heat pump. My plan is to replace the stock headers with whatever researches best, and have the Dr. re-tune the bike. Has anyone gone through the same experience and what did you do, and are you happy with what you did? Oh, also, does any of this void the warranty? You know, no cat's.

 

To answer your warranty question, you have already voided your warranty with the PC-V installed. If you have to take the bike in for repairs you will have to remove it to avoid "issues" at the dealer since it's not a MOCO part. Removing the cat will void your warranty also. Save your factory header in case there are EPA crackdowns later down the road too. Most people here go for the V&H or Fuelmoto headers. The Fuelmoto's are on backorder so expect to wait if you choose them. Fuelmoto also has many PC-V maps already on file so you don't have to pay for more dyno time if you use their products.

 

A pcv does not void your warranty. If the clutch goes out or something like that your covered. If your ecm fries however that might be different. I couldn't possibly imagine replacing the headers would in anyway effect your warranty. As for what header to use if your not concerned with a big performance gain then go with a stock header from an 09 or similar year without the cats. You can probably find one pretty cheap.

 

I guess that is also one of my questions that I didn't put across very well. What are the good and bad points of True Duals, 2 into 1's, and 2-1-2's? I've heard of hp differences, and "scavaging" issues. What is the straight poop? And would just removing the cats be enough to cool the headers?

 

So wait, you are telling me that you have a 103 cubic inch v-twin motor and when you turn it on and straddle it, it gets hot???? That's so weird...... I for one, am stumped.

 

Though I appreciate the dry sense of humor, much like my own, I really need some help with this issue. My wife and I ride with the New London Motorcycle Club and try to make every ride possible, as we both consider this our therapy. The kind of riding this club does made it necessary to upgrade to the FLH, and we do love the bike. My problem is, Margo suffers from a condition that is made much worse when exposed to heat, and I don't mean a hot day. The heat that radiates from these headers is much more intense than any other Harley I've ridden, and until I fix it I'm minus one set of double D's as my backrest on hot summer days.

 

You can remove the cat and the heat reduction will be very noticeable. That can be done with a totally new header or you can remove the cat material from the old header.

I run a FM 2-1-2 stainless header and I am very happy with it. I did not want to simply remove the cat and install the crappy-made rusty looking stock header back on my bike anyway, so it's in the box over in the corner now. Lots of guys have gutted the cat, welded the stocker back together, and re-installed with decent results. You can go whichever way you choose, but the cat has to go if you want to reduce that right side heat.

Another upside for you is that if you go with Fuel Moto's header design, Jamie can supply you will a good map for your bike's PCV for free and you won't have to fool with additional dyno time. The maps are usually very close so you can save that "dyno" money for something else if you choose to go that route.

The heat of the cat is what was melting the rear brake light switches on the 2010's and up, so you know the damn thing is nothing to have on a motorcycle in that area. It's there to burn the hydrocarbons before they exit in the exhaust flow, but we don't care about no stinkin' hydrocarbons! Lose it!

 

On a serious note, a clear head pipe and a good tune will help with heat a lot. There are 1000 different ways to do it, but that is the secret. The head pipe will help, but the tune is the most important. And, while a good base map will get you started, every bike is different. To truely reduce the most amount of heat a custom, professional tune is the best option. So, I say, decide how you want to clear the cat from your exhaust, get a PC-V WITH a base map, then find a reputable tuner and have him custom tune your machine. That is the best option. You get what you pay for and there are no perfect short cuts to this. Good luck!

 

Or you could try one of the fans that this guy makes http://www.wardspartswerks.com. I have one on order. From what I understand it really cools off the motor. Just the thing I need for my trike, there's just no where for the heat to go. My bike is comfortable while moving; but in stop and go traffic, I'm in heat management mode in no time. I also have 1" extensions on my floorboards to move my feet away from the heat source. If I can drop the head temps down to 220*-240* I'll be a happy camper.

 

Just ignore the sarcasm David, your going to get it regardless. If you want an immediate solution with no performance impact (actually it will feel stronger), then have the stock header gutted or buy one that doesn't have it. It will be a huge improvement on heat.

Slice an opening just like I did and clean the catalyst out like cream out of a pastry. Then seal it up again.