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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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As I am getting close, $-wise, to trading out the stocker shocks on my 09 Ultra for a set of Ohlins, I think I have read somewhere they may ride a little higher (seat to ground), My first job is changing the front springs to Racetech single rates (.95) and Jason's reworked ricor intiminators. I weigh about 180 and usually ride one up.
I got to thinking about the front end and have read most riders my weight etc cut 4" spacers for the front forks. I also wondered if I just cut the spacers the same length as the difference between the dual rate stock spring and the new RT, I would still end up at about the same ride height.
I don't guess I would want the front end any lower if the back end rides a little high.
So my questions are, go with the 4" spacer or just make them the same as the difference in the old an new springs, and go with 13" Ohlins or
lower the whole thing by making the spacers 3.5" and go with 12" Ohlins.
Thanks to all
 
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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I bought the Olin 13". They have a ride height adjustment nut at bottom of shock.They do ride about 1/4" higher. I bought a set of LAC lowering blocks - under $100 and put them on. I adjusted the ride height nut on the bottom so I am lowered about 1/2". LAC blocks do not change your ride quality. They are in a straight line with the shocks.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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Thanks 62hdbiker, that helps me out. So if I make the front fork spacer a little short of the recommended 4" and she sits a little low in the front, I can catch up with that by adjusting the rear shocks. Anyone care to chime in on an opinion as to if based on the general idea of a 4" spacer for the forks keeping the sag pretty close to stock, would a 3.5" spacer drop the front an equal .5 inches?
Thanks again
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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With LAC lowering blocks you will be able to adjust between stock height and 1/2" lower.
There is about an 1" of adjustment on the shock- but if you go too low - the dampner adjustment will hit LAC blocks.
The Olins are smaller in diameter and fit behind saddle bag with plenty of clearance. The instructions mention you may have to space bag out to clear shocks- but that is for stock shocks. Cant comment on front, as mine is stock
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 09:04 AM
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Come on chaps, using lowering blocks with Ohlins is sacrilege. That really is a waste of good money. Buy the darned things at the height you want them FFS! #3-3s can be adjusted from 12.8" to 13.1" long. #3-2s are a little shorter, otherwise #3-1s are 12" long.

The reason they seem a little higher than stock shocks is that stock shocks cannot be adjusted for sag and usually sit low, especially two up.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Come on chaps, using lowering blocks with Ohlins is sacrilege. That really is a waste of good money. Buy the darned things at the height you want them FFS! #3-3s can be adjusted from 12.8" to 13.1" long. #3-2s are a little shorter, otherwise #3-1s are 12" long.

The reason they seem a little higher than stock shocks is that stock shocks cannot be adjusted for sag and usually sit low, especially two up.
!!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Come on chaps, using lowering blocks with Ohlins is sacrilege. That really is a waste of good money. Buy the darned things at the height you want them FFS! #3-3s can be adjusted from 12.8" to 13.1" long. #3-2s are a little shorter, otherwise #3-1s are 12" long.

The reason they seem a little higher than stock shocks is that stock shocks cannot be adjusted for sag and usually sit low, especially two up.
I would agree if shocks delivered what they claim....or a buyer achieves what others report....but rider and pax weigth being different and the ability to duplicate results being a crap shoot.....I don't agree at all. If you buy the height exact to what you think you need and use no lowering devices you are stuck with a shorter shock. If you buy the standard length shock, you can use the three positions most of the lowering kits have to tweak the shock behavior in addition to what ever the shock offers.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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or go with a system that allows you to raise and lower based on your requirements either manually with a switch or automatic mode. I Agree if you get the right shock and your circumstances change your pouched, but if you get a system that adjusts based on the demand at hand - your good to go.

Buying the right solution is not always price driven, if it is then stick with what you have.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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Glad to have stirred some comments, maybe I wasn't clear with my main quesiton......which had to do with the spacer required for the front springs and if a 4" spacer ends up giving me the same sag (aobut 33mm) I started with, then would a 3.5" spacer result in a .5 inch or so drop as well, likewise would a 3" spacer drop her 1 inch?
I am starting to change the springs out and the damper (intiminators that fab re worked) and soon will be going with ohlins out back and just got to wondering if whatever happens up front ride height wise can be compensated for in the rear to level things out.
Or a half an inch on either end even matter in the first place, I have been known to over complicate from time to time
Thanks again to all
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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The stock 3-3S at their lowest setting was still so high that the axle bolt hit my muffler at full extension. It actually dimpled my muffler. I just put on the lowering blocks to get back my stock ride height or a tad lower. LAC blocks don't change ride quality in any way.They are in a straight line with the shock, unlike many other lowering devices that change shock angle. Full compression even at shortest setting with the blocks doesn't come close to hitting the fender to wheel or other bad stuff.
 
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