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One word of caution. You have conflicting desires as stated. In order for the lever pull to be easier, the fixed amount of cable movement (lever parked to lever against the grip) must cause less clutch disengagement movement. You will get into a very tight window for clutch adjustment if you change the lever which will pull the cable less (lever closer to the grip) and change the release mechanism so that every bit of designed cable movement is needed to fully disengage the clutch.
Sorry if this is confusing, perhaps someone else can explain it better. Good luck with your hands and wrists.
Just had this kit from http://www.phaedruscycle.com/ installed. It makes the clutch easier to pull than a hydraulic unit (I put this kit on my FXR; my Electra Glide has hydraulic) Helped a lot and I'm back in the wind pretty much pain free thanks to that and prednisone.
One word of caution. You have conflicting desires as stated. In order for the lever pull to be easier, the fixed amount of cable movement (lever parked to lever against the grip) must cause less clutch disengagement movement. You will get into a very tight window for clutch adjustment if you change the lever which will pull the cable less (lever closer to the grip) and change the release mechanism so that every bit of designed cable movement is needed to fully disengage the clutch.
Sorry if this is confusing, perhaps someone else can explain it better. Good luck with your hands and wrists.
I took the easy way out, as soon as i changed the pressure plate from the harley kit much clutch got so sweet to pull i didnt change the ramp.
Will save that for when i change the clutch cable.
Just had this kit from http://www.phaedruscycle.com/ installed. It makes the clutch easier to pull than a hydraulic unit (I put this kit on my FXR; my Electra Glide has hydraulic) Helped a lot and I'm back in the wind pretty much pain free thanks to that and prednisone.
I've used the MRC one on 4 bikes and it works great. I even put it on my 07. It's more money, like $90 and they only sell to mechanics and they want them to install. I like it because it replaces the whole ramp and has slightly bigger ball bearings. Often the cable needs a good lube and the best way is with a cable adapter so the spray can be forced down the cable.
this was originally from dearly departed White Brothers, now sold under the Burly name.
tip:
remove exhaust if required to access tranny end cover.*
using a 1/4" allen, break loose the bolts
once all the heavy "torquing" is done,
roll your tires up on a 2x4- and put the bike on the jiffy stand. MAKE SURE IT IS STABLE
this will keep just about all the tranny fluid in place- no need to drain and re-fill.
new gasket is probably smart, although I have reused gaskets many, many times.
new torque spec for end cover bolts is 25 ft lbs. ( for models with exhaust header mount on lower 2 bolts).
mike
* some can be removed with exhaust in place- if clearance is tight, a 1/4" drive screwdriver bit can be put into the allen, butt end first. and then turn the bit with a 1/4" wrench. this is fiddly but can be a real time saver
I have done this job before when I was building a new bike.
This time around bike is much older, so I will do gasket, new clutch cable, all of it, even though now it looks like I don't need the ramp kit (but I already bought it), problem turned out to be migrating joint pain and went to elbows and shoulders and now jaw, so it is looking like Lymes, not a carpal tunnel thing. I will be back on the road soon!
So anyway, thanks for the tip on saving the oil mess, I would not have done that!
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