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Drive Belt and Sprocket replacement

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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 05:46 AM
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Default Drive Belt and Sprocket replacement

So, after 22,000 miles my sprocket is eating my drive belt. Or it could be the other way around. But whatever - Harley won't cover it under the warranty and the dealer will want big ŁŁŁ to replace it. I've asked for a quote, but whatever it is - it'll be very expensive.

So the time is fast approaching when I'll have to wave some spanners at my Road King. Before I get started, what will I need? I'm going to skip the primary chain locking tool as I understand you can use a shop rag wedged in there instead.

I have: a lift, a couple of torque wrenches, a selection of sockets/spanners/breaker bar etc accumulated after doing lots of work to a 1966 Land Rover a long time ago and the Service Manual.

I need: a belt, a sprocket, a gasket kit for the primary and what else?

And I would be very grateful for advice from anyone who's already done this!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 05:56 AM
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Default Why??

So, why is your sprocket eating your belt after only 22,00 miles? Do you have an alignment issue , or possibly some kind of damage to the sprocket or belt? This kind of damage seems very premature to me.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 06:22 AM
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Just replaced my drive belt on my 03 Electra Glide You need a lift, good allen socket set to get the outer primary off, wedge block to hold the primary chain while you crack the compensator sproket, an 1 1/2 socket and breaker bar to loosen the compensator. A set of wrenches for the back axle adjusters, may be 1 1/2 but I use 2 to be sure I don't get an alignment issue during tightening. If I remember you will also need a good set of Torx sockets for various other fasteners to get the inner and outer primary off. You will need a good pin punch and hammer to push the swingarm pivot bolt out. Do not disassemble the clutch hub, just pull the spring clip out of the adjuster plate, remove the plate and you will need another big socket, 1 3/16 maybe to pull the clutch hub. This one needs to be a thin socket to get inside the hub. You will also need a good torque wrench to put it back together. Iv'e only done this 2 times in 20 years so a little fuzzy on the process. Get yourself a quart of primary lube, new O-ring and outer gasket for the primary, new retainer clips for the inner primary, lock-tite red for the crank bolt and never seize to coat your swingarm pivot shaft.You are disassembling the primary chain case between the tranny and engine and removing the back swingarm to put the belt on. Took me about 4 hours, a shop can most likely do it in 2 or less, If you dont feel comfortable breaking it down that far and if you don't have a large socket set and good torque wrench I would take it to someone...
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by cochon
So, why is your sprocket eating your belt after only 22,00 miles? Do you have an alignment issue , or possibly some kind of damage to the sprocket or belt? This kind of damage seems very premature to me.
I think it all ought to have lasted longer as well, but it hasn't. The teeth on both the sprocket and the belt have worn in an uneven manner across the width of the tooth. I'll take a photo tonight and post it when I get home.

I have no idea why they've worn like this, but they have. The belt has no stone damage or anything and I've not ridden across sand or any gravel roads so it beats me how this happened! Point it is has and now I need to deal with it.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Scrmnvtwins
Just replaced my drive belt on my 03 Electra Glide You need a lift, good allen socket set to get the outer primary off, wedge block to hold the primary chain while you crack the compensator sproket, an 1 1/2 socket and breaker bar to loosen the compensator. A set of wrenches for the back axle adjusters, may be 1 1/2 but I use 2 to be sure I don't get an alignment issue during tightening. If I remember you will also need a good set of Torx sockets for various other fasteners to get the inner and outer primary off. You will need a good pin punch and hammer to push the swingarm pivot bolt out. Do not disassemble the clutch hub, just pull the spring clip out of the adjuster plate, remove the plate and you will need another big socket, 1 3/16 maybe to pull the clutch hub. This one needs to be a thin socket to get inside the hub. You will also need a good torque wrench to put it back together. Iv'e only done this 2 times in 20 years so a little fuzzy on the process. Get yourself a quart of primary lube, new O-ring and outer gasket for the primary, new retainer clips for the inner primary, lock-tite red for the crank bolt and never seize to coat your swingarm pivot shaft.You are disassembling the primary chain case between the tranny and engine and removing the back swingarm to put the belt on. Took me about 4 hours, a shop can most likely do it in 2 or less, If you dont feel comfortable breaking it down that far and if you don't have a large socket set and good torque wrench I would take it to someone...
I'll have to see what size my largest sockets are, but if I don't have them I'll get 'em. Any specifics on the Punch? Is there a risk that it might damage the end of the pivot bolt?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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Hi from just down the road! You need a factory service manual old chap! You will get your money back several times over if you do this job yourself. There are also videos out there showing how to do it. An alternative is a local indy and I can give you a nearby one if you PM me.

There certainly seems to be something causing your belt wear. Unusual wear patterns indicate another problem, at the least wheel alignment, possibly vehicle alignment.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:04 AM
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this might help;

http://www.harley-davidson-hangout.c...lt-change.html
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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Not that hard a job. You will have to remove the left side floor board, just take the bolts out of the inside of the frame. The nut on the clutch is a reverse thread. Keep track of what you take off and put it back in the same place. Make sure you have a torque wrench that can go to 165 ft lbs for the compensator nut. And as stated a manual is your friend for all the torque specs.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Hi from just down the road! You need a factory service manual old chap! You will get your money back several times over if you do this job yourself. There are also videos out there showing how to do it. An alternative is a local indy and I can give you a nearby one if you PM me.

There certainly seems to be something causing your belt wear. Unusual wear patterns indicate another problem, at the least wheel alignment, possibly vehicle alignment.
I got a Service Manual when I got the bike - when I was a Scout, they told me to "be prepared", so I am!

The bike is a 2011, so I reckon I can rule out vehicle alignment being the problem. Although, that being said, I was gently bumped into from behind last winter by an inattentive girl at a roundabout. But that was so light it just slightly bent the rear light bar and the tip of the fender - not even enough to crack the paint. I don't believe that could have caused the sprocket/belt to wear this fast.

More likely that the rear wheel has been out of alignment. It had a new inner tube fitted about a year ago after I ran over a screw left behind by a careless builder. A dealer replaced it, but it could be that they put it on crooked...

I've searched the usual sites for videos of someone doing this, but haven't found any - I'll PM you for an Indy's details. Always good to have.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by collin
Yeah, I came across this already. But thanks for pointing it out again - won't be the last time I refer to it, I'm sure!
 
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