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Just a standard 1/38 boxed end wrench will take it loose problem is you can't take any torque readings with a boxed end wrench when installing the nut.that being said I know there's plenty of people who will tell ya you don't need torque reading I just think its better if ya can, imo
Yes you can, if you see the "rear axle nut" torque method described in the manual.
I think it even uses the wrench supplied in the tool kit?
Like I said you can do it with a boxed end wrench or a axle wrench but if you want it done properly the best method is buy the $7.00 socket and put a reliable torque wrench on it.thats why the repair manual has torque numbers,but if that doesn't get for ya just grab a big wrench and reef on it. Imo
Like I said you can do it with a boxed end wrench or a axle wrench but if you want it done properly the best method is buy the $7.00 socket and put a reliable torque wrench on it.thats why the repair manual has torque numbers,but if that doesn't get for ya just grab a big wrench and reef on it. Imo
Again - the manual describes the proper way to torque a nut using a 90 degree bar and torque wrench.
Otherwise you'll have to remove the handlebar and fairing (inner and outer) to get adequate room to use a socket and torque wrench.
A whole lot of work.
My vote - just reef on it. I've got 60K miles and 4 fork oil changes and lots and lots of twisting roads in between. No ill affects.
Last edited by Scorpion07; Aug 17, 2012 at 01:33 PM.
Doing mine thi s weekend and I for sure don't wanna hijack ya here, but this question might help us both, how thick can the box end be on the wrench. I have many to choose from, but want to bring the correct one home the first time. Hope this helps us both out
Kris
I use the open end on my 1 3/8" combination wrench which is ˝" thick and fits fine. The box end is thicker, about 5/8", but I don't think I've used it for this task and I don't recall why.
I generally believe in torquing bolts when possible but have never torqued the cap, and it doesn't need to be tight. In fact, mine was barely tightened at all from the factory, certainly nowhere near the 50-60 lb-ft spec, and came off very easily. I usually just snug it up, not too tight, and have never had a problem with leakage or anything else. After a few removals it would be advisable to change the seal under the cap.
I just use the rear axle nut wrench that came in my tool kit. I've done it plenty of times when changing fork oil the "iclick" way. Best thread to date BTW!
I used the 36mm wrench in the tool kit the first time I changed the fork oil, but it is a bit too large for the fork caps, which are 1 3/8" (35mm). The second oil change I couldn't remove the caps with that wrench, as I had tightened them more than the factory did. I was concerned that I might damage either the wrench or cap if I forced it since the two weren't an exact size match, so I ordered the 1 3/8" wrench that I now use only for this task.
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