Apes fell down again....LA Chopper 16" touring
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
Well I ordered a gorilla clamp but last night I pulled the outer fairing, radio out, ignition switch **** off, inner switch cap off and got to the clamp myself. Took me two hours to do all that and tighten the clamp after repositioning the bars. Next time it slips gorilla clamp going on.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,598
Likes: 14
From: navarre ohio
stock bagger bar risers suck even with stock bars.they sell a stamped steel one piece top clamp for it,they arnt that much better.get a low one piece aluminum riser set like you would use on a bike with out fork tins, you will probably have to grind the top front edge a little to clear the fairing, the bars will hold a lot better
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 974
Likes: 4
From: Utah
I took the top half of my riser clamps off and drilled 1/4" hole in them on the inside 3/8" deep. Wrapped some masking tape about 10 layers thick around my bars and then put the riser clamps back on, tightened them so it would mark the tape where the hole I drilled in the riser clamp was. Drilled hole in marked spots on bars using a drill bit depth stop so I didn't hit any wires inside the bar. Installed 2 roll pins purchased from Lowes for 18 cents.
No more movement.period.
No more movement.period.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 635
Likes: 7
From: Sin City
I just installed the 16" hefty apes from LA Choppers and used their 1.5" tall riser kit with their one piece top clamp. They fkn slip after tightened with loctite. I called LA choppers and they said I was the first call they'd ever had with this issue...oh really? Here we go with the beer can, drywall sanding screen...etc. Is the HD gorrilla grabber for 1" clamping area only? Thanks much.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
Another method, that doesn't involve strips of beer can or sandpaper is to drill a hole through the top clamp and into the bars. Tap the hole in the top clamp, run a bolt through the clamp into the hole you drilled in the bars. Loctite the bolt in place and you're as solid as you'll ever need. Only drawback is you have to drill a new hole in the bars if you want to rotate them forward or back. If you're 100% on your bars location, this is a permanent solution.
All of that said, if I were going to run apes I would drill and tap the upper handlebar clamp on the left and right sides. Then, I'd re-assemble and adjust the bars where I wanted them. Mark the position on the bars with a thin punch even spray paint down the hole (if the clamp isn't visible). Take the clamp off and drill detents (not holes) into the bars. Put it back together and then install pointed hex set screws through the clamp and into the bar detents. Should you choose to move the bars, another set of detents will be needed in the bars.
Forty four years ago I had the same problem on my "Stingray" bicycle. Honestly, I can't think why someone doesn't manufacture a system (bars & clamp) given the liability of handlebar movement and inevitability greater leverage.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 362
Likes: 13
From: Okinawa, Japan
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,618
Likes: 290
From: Johnstown, PA
This may help, thought about buying one when I put my little apes on, but figured I would try without. I haven't had any reason to change things out.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/535-...FYEDOgodHkAA-Q
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/535-...FYEDOgodHkAA-Q