Fab you know I love you man, but your statement is somewhat incorrect. True dat the TC oil system is a flow system, but..... Flow in a system is proportional to the differential pressure. There are other factors such as the increase of head loss as Flow increases, so it is not a linear system.

But, bottom line, increasing the inlet pressure to the system DOES increase the flow rate through the system assuming the outlet pressure remains the same (Delta Pressure). This increase may be small, but in a flow system, any increase is good. The other area where pressure and flow are good is the lifters. The increased pressure and flow help keep the lifters pumped up, especially at higher rpm. So, I use the baisley spring and their ground and polished bypass valve. It is good for flow and good for the lifters

 

And what does higher oil pressure translate into, in terms of performance of your engine, beside moving the needle of the gauge to the right?

 

Luv it

 

It does seem to quiet the valve train. I would not say that it makes a huge difference. The extra pressure should cushion bearing and bushing surfaces better also. I also saw temperatures in the 280-300 degree F range quite often when the bike was stock with the stock spring, I rarely see temps in excess of 220 F now, I cannot say for certain that this is a result of the additional oil pressure since I have never decreased the oil pressure to see if the oil temps would increase and the engine is no longer stock.
I think you may have over done it. Even with the 30% increase spring I have never seen my oil gauge peg out. If it did I would go to the 15% increase spring. I did at first use Zipper's spring shim on the stock spring, but I shaved it to half it's thickness before installing it, it was about 1/8" thick. That seemed be a reasonable increase.

 

Baisley spring and plunger in both bikes, love them. As far as the cold running, my bike sits and fully warms up in the winter.

 

The ERT Products kit comes with 3 springs so you can adjust it to where it should be and not have to much lik putting a slug under the spring.

 

I you like that kit go for it. It is probably as good as any, though I can't say that for sure. I can't use the exhaust gaskets they have in the kit and I prefer Cometics gaskets. I'm not sure about starving the lower end with too much pressure though, I don't think that increasing the spring pressure increases your scavaging. If anything, I think sumping would occur.

 

More precise valve operation and possibly a longer lasting motor. Not much,but considering what some of these jack wagons pay for 5 more hp, what the heck. This only cost about $30 bucks and 5 minutes if done while replacing cams.

 

Why not just stretch the stock spring for free.

 

Probably could, but do you know how far to go? Do the R&D and let us know.