Slipon muffler install question
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 401
Likes: 2
From: Odenton, MD
Slipon muffler install question
I had a shop install my Jackpot 4" mufflers a few weeks ago and I noticed some air escaping on both sides where the headpipe meets the muffler. I took it back to them and the guy said that's normal because of the slots cut in the slipons. I called Fuelmoto and they recommend Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone to seal them. I have read some posts here that say to use anti-seize also. While taking a closer look at the current installation, I can see some gray residue on the pipe already. I'm going to guess they already added some anti-seize on the pipe and that didn't seal. My question is can you use both an anti-seize and the silicone sealant? Or is one better than the other. I'm more inclined to follow Fuelmoto's recommendation and use the Silicone.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,403
Likes: 25
From: se michigan
I've always made sure the slip on is mounted past the point of the slot on the head pipe to keep this from happening. Never had a issue or need to use silicone, using a new exhaust clamp wouldn't hurt either.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 923
Likes: 43
From: New Hampshire
I had some issues getting my Jackpots to seal up good too. IMHO, you shouldn't *need* to use silicone, but it's not a bad idea.
My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.
I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.
I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 659
Likes: 2
From: Central Ohio
Are you kidding me! You never want any leaks in your exhaust system where the headers mount to the motor or where the mufflers and headers come together. You risk performance issues with lost of flow, discoloration around the holes and it could cause popping.
It sounds like the muffler is not installed on the header pipe all the way. The muffler brackets below the saddlebags on toward the back are adjustable and can slide. Like mentioned earlier, the heat shield clamps can be loosened and the mufflers can be pushed on further.
I always use copper silicone around the front inside diameter of the muffler connection to help aid in the install and removal if needed and I do believe it does help aid with sealing too. The muffler clamps like also mentioned earlier needs to be placed on and toward the end of the muffler connection and bolted tight. Some after market exhausts will have the torque specs also. If not, factory specs will do.
Last edited by MrHog; Aug 29, 2012 at 09:58 AM.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 552
Likes: 2
From: Florida
+1 on all the info above now if using the Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone, please read the instructions, DON'T start it, and let it set to make sure it cures all the way. been there done that, re doing it sucks!!!
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Mt Vernon, Ohio
Does the Copper silicone make it easier to get apart? I assumed just the opposite. I use hi temp silicone on pellet stove vent pipes...and its a btch to get them apart. I have to remove mine on my 2000 to change the rear wheel....figured the silicone would make it impossible.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,508
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From: WPB, FL
I had some issues getting my Jackpots to seal up good too. IMHO, you shouldn't *need* to use silicone, but it's not a bad idea.
My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.
I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
My tip is to make sure you loosen the heat shields so you can really get the pipes fully seated, and make sure the muffler clamps are right up to the end of the muffler (i.e. you can't see any muffler past the clamp). Also, make sure those clamps are nice and tight.
I didn't use silicone nor new clamps. However, in retrospect, given that I did have issues, I would have done both to hopefully avoid some futzing around. That said, I think I've got them all snugged up now...
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 401
Likes: 2
From: Odenton, MD
Does the Copper silicone make it easier to get apart? I assumed just the opposite. I use hi temp silicone on pellet stove vent pipes...and its a btch to get them apart. I have to remove mine on my 2000 to change the rear wheel....figured the silicone would make it impossible.
I originally had the intent to install these along with my header myself, but at the last minute decided against it. The head pipe looked like it would be a b**ch to get off.