Twist grip sensor...bar help
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,416
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From: San Quirino, Italy
Twist grip sensor...bar help
Well, I am in the middle of my bar swap and I am stumped. Got all the wires ran and the bike will not start. All switches work, the fuel pumps hums but no love when I hit the starter. I pulled the codes with my power vision and they all are twist grip related. So, I have to be missing something simple...does the little black plug that goes to the sensor attach to anything? I can find a plug and that is all I can see that could be wrong...
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 447
Likes: 11
From: Bronxville ny
Check the wires to the two large connectors. i had isues with the one on the right. I had the same problem and it turned out I had three wires in the wrong place. Some one else here made the same mistake.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 0
From: Flatwoods Kentucky
This same thing happened to me. I bet if you twist your throttle Extremly forward it will start but be ready to shut it back off because it will rev to the moon. Somehow while installing my TBW along with the other wires in my bars it got screwed up. I had to pull the wires back out and purchase the Screaming Eagle TBW.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,416
Likes: 88
From: San Quirino, Italy
Well, the bike will start intermittently now...That is worse than not starting at all. I have to have a loose connection somewhere. I am certain all the wires are in the right place. I have done several of these bikes. Now that I am doing mine, I have to F something up...Any tips on finding the loose connection?
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: San Quirino, Italy
These bikes will start without the TBW connected right? If that is the case, the TBW cannot be the issue here. That eliminates that so it has to be the switches I think?
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 239
Likes: 7
From: KCK
No expert here...Just chiming in...I went with the #32310-08 twist grip sensor. Price ranges...88-99 bucks dependent on where purchased H.D. ? It was a simple plug and go.
I dreaded having to do any splicing and soldering and have read to much on here and else where NOT to do if at all possible with these twist sensors. Not sure if you went with splicing/soldering or or an extension? I just plugged into existing male to female plugs. And to be on the safe side if others did it splicing & soldering and it worked that's fine. All this on a 2012 Road King.
Meanwhile, there was ample length of wire(s) for this part number which I installed a set HD fat ape bars 12-1/2" with 4 inch risers equal to 16 inches over all and still plenty of tbw wire bundle length left.
There's no way to meter that stuff for switch continuity and if there is it's hard to do and you stand a chance of damaging wire or switch connections.
To end all of my textual rambling you'll have to go by wire color code(s) and check all of them and pin numbers. Also, NOTE...them there pins in them thar connectors often "PUSH" back in sometimes not allowing a good connection when plugging in. One of the connectors might be bad/damaged from pin removal or replacement...just saying Maybe?
This is what happens with 10 cups of coffee...LOL hope this helps and I'm on track with topic/subject...Also...Note...pull the main fuse when doing this...I learned the hard way...duh!
I dreaded having to do any splicing and soldering and have read to much on here and else where NOT to do if at all possible with these twist sensors. Not sure if you went with splicing/soldering or or an extension? I just plugged into existing male to female plugs. And to be on the safe side if others did it splicing & soldering and it worked that's fine. All this on a 2012 Road King.
Meanwhile, there was ample length of wire(s) for this part number which I installed a set HD fat ape bars 12-1/2" with 4 inch risers equal to 16 inches over all and still plenty of tbw wire bundle length left.
There's no way to meter that stuff for switch continuity and if there is it's hard to do and you stand a chance of damaging wire or switch connections.
To end all of my textual rambling you'll have to go by wire color code(s) and check all of them and pin numbers. Also, NOTE...them there pins in them thar connectors often "PUSH" back in sometimes not allowing a good connection when plugging in. One of the connectors might be bad/damaged from pin removal or replacement...just saying Maybe?
This is what happens with 10 cups of coffee...LOL hope this helps and I'm on track with topic/subject...Also...Note...pull the main fuse when doing this...I learned the hard way...duh!
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,416
Likes: 88
From: San Quirino, Italy
Well, I found the culprit. The last time I did my bars I used wire extensions. One of the male pins broke inside the heat shrink. Soldered it and I am good. All I have left to do is to replace the upper ABS line...Not looking forward to that at all...