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The Castrol 10w-60 you speak of was made exclusively for BMW M models. I use that along with Redline 10w-60 in my wife's M Roadster. I would stick with the straight 60w synthetic others have mentioned. The Castrol TWS is marketed in the US and is only found at BMW dealers and some BMW performance shops. The Castrol you mentioned is made for European and I guess middle eastern markets.
Summer: day time it reach over 110F normaly & some times 120F once i sow 140f but under the sun, night time around 95F with very high humidity around 70-80%
Wenter: day time 80'sF night time 70'sF
Right now its 11 pm the temp 85F
Thats why you all keep saying riding season is ended. But here in Saudi its just started
I think you would be fine with a 60wt synthetic or even a 50wt would do. You could also consider extending your change interval if using full syn-- to say 4000 miles easily depending on traffic conditions but your call of course..
if you can't locate a straight weight synthetic then I would consider a 25wt-60 minimum.
Summer: day time it reach over 110F normaly & some times 120F once i sow 140f but under the sun, night time around 95F with very high humidity around 70-80%
Wenter: day time 80'sF night time 70'sF
Right now its 11 pm the temp 85F
Thats why you all keep saying riding season is ended. But here in Saudi its just started
Given the environment, I would recommend using the scavenger oil change method. Roguechopper.com
That 10w60 oil should be fine or a straight 60 wt but i would shorten my intervals because of the sandy and dusty conditions....maybe around 3500-4000 miles
Last edited by Notgrownup; Oct 8, 2012 at 08:57 PM.
Never heard of it but if its MA Jaso your don't need it since the clutch pack doesn't share oil with the crankcase. If I were you and the temps are pretty close to yours I would run a straight 60 w in dino or synthetic in any brand you want. The 10w is for 10 degree start ups and neither one of use will ever see that or even want to ride in those temps. The manual says you can use
straight 50w if the temp are 60 degrees overnight and 60w if 80 degrees overnight. Hell I bet it doesn't get cooler than 100 overnight so 60 is where I would be.
10w doesn't mean 10 degree start ups. That's absurd. The w means winter. 10 means the oil behaves as a 10 grade in winter conditions.
Op a 10w-60 will shear very quickly. I suggest a straight 60 grade for you in the desert. In your operating conditions you want a larger first number and large second number such as a 20w-60 for example.
What can you get ahold of out there. A straight grade would be better. It won't shear at all which means it will stay the same viscosity.
A 10w-60 starts it's life as a 10 grade oil,then viscosity improvers are added to stop it thinning to a 10 grade when hot. These viscosity improvers look like a snake coiled up. As the oil heats up the coils uncoil helping the oil thin less. Over time the coils get cut,it's called shear. So once the coils are cut it will thin more when hot until it thins out to a 10 grade hot.
A straight grade starts life as that particular grade and doesn't shear,maintaining it's film strength.
A multi grade oil is ideally suited for a climate where start up is colder,so the oil pumps faster and heats up to operating temp quicker. Your climate is better suited for a straight grade.
I know this been asked 1000000 time but sorry
What shall I use for the primary & transmition
I found 75w 140, 75w 90 & 80w140 gear oil all are synth oil
& I read in some threads that the synth oil is not recommended in primary is that true
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