I'm not sure what size that wrench is, but I welded a nut onto the top of the deep socket, so I can put a wrench on it and still get through the top with the allen wrench.

 

Just remember that the clutch basket and plates tend to swell by the end of a long day, putting the pusher plate a bit further away from the cam & cable mechanism located on the opposite side of the transmission.

Once the 'clutch basket' setting is done with the proper play (according to the manual), the cable can be set so that the clutch breaks open as soon as the round corner of the white nylon spacer becomes visible.

 

I do it just like the manual recommends using the video for guidance. Note that the mechanic in the video used a standard open end wrench with his Allen wrench. Worked for me.

 

11/16 great minds think alike, I did the same

 

Start with a cold motor.

Loosen the jam nuts on the clutch cable. They are under the rubber boot.

Put maximum slack in the cable.

Remove screws in derby cover.

Use an 11/16 wrench or socket to loosen jam nut on clutch adjusting screw.
I always put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear at this point.

With the transmission in gear, you can step on the rear brake pedal so the clutch basket does not turn when you loosen the jam nut.

With the jam nut loose, take your allen tool and turn the allen head "In" till it gently bottoms out. Do this several times until you have a good feel for it.
Once you are satisfied it is all the way in, turn the allen "Out" about 3/4 of a turn.
This is your clutch adjustment.

Now, use your 11/16 wrench (socket) and tighten the jam nut. This is where you stand on the rear brake pedal so the clutch basket does not turn.
Make the jamb nut snug, but don't twist the threads off.

Now put the derby cover back on.

Go back to the clutch cable adjuster and tighten it back up so you take all the slack out of the clutch lever. The cable is adjusted when you can slide a dime between the ferrule and the housing at the lever. Set the jamb nuts and pull the rubber cover down.

Now squeeze the clutch lever a couple of times to set everything.
Your done. Go out for a ride to test it out.
I paraphrased a lot here for those who don't have a manual, but I would recommend that you pop for the $60.00 service manual if you enjoy this sort of thing. You will usually pay for the service manual the first time you take it to the dealer for service. Servicing a Harley is pretty simple stuff, so simple that my wife can do it. She used to have trouble putting a diaper on a baby too. Your biggest investment will be in basic hand tools. You don't need a set of $5000.00 Snap On Tools because you are not going to be making a living turning wrenches. I would think you could spend $100.00 at the local Walmart and get enough tools to do most service such as fluid changes and clutch adjustments. When something pops up that is above your comfort level, take it to the dealer and help send his kids to college, instead of yours.

 

Fix My Hog video series.....must have if you plan on doing your own maintenance. They do a nice job on the clutch adjustment--very easy to do but need to follow the recommended steps. Ditto on the manual. Hale's Harley Davidson will sell you one for $48 plus shipping I think.

 

This is pretty good advice to follow with one exception... You do not want to remove all the slack out of the cable. There needs to be some "freeplay". If not, you're asking for the clutch to slip. Without any freeplay the clutch may not be fully engaged.

I adjust my clutch exactly as Retrop described except I go 1 turn rather than 3/4 turn for freeplay at the clutch (personal preference), and then I adjust the cable to position the clutch engagement relative to the grip, while ensuring adequate freeplay in the lever.

 

I heated and bent a old combination wrench To fit in that hole.

 

I slightly raised / turned my handlebars. My clutch cable is now too stiff (passing through the fairing) to move freely and use a coin; this is why I align with the white plastic spacer

 

I would highly recommend the 11/16 deep socket to tighten the locknut. I just use a pair of visegrips and really get it tight. I used a wrench forever with no problems until the last time. The adjuster nut came loose on the way to work in the morning. I rode it home thinking that I had a broken clutch cable (fun ride with no clutch) and readjusted and thought everything was ok. About a month later my clutch began to slip terribly. Turns out I fried the plates. SE plates and spring now but learning a lesson gets expensive. I always tighten the $h1t out of the nut using a socket now.