When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by GPHDXLC
OP here.
Well from the 10 post this Thread has got so far looks like the main reason to install one is to help the IPB from going bad. 'dawg' and 'jayStronghawk' felt some improvement in how the primary works. But '05LowRider' 'lionsm13' and NEcaveman' felt little or no improvement in the primary. The reason I'm interested in this is my 11 King with 17000 miles has a wiring sound from the primary and I get a very loud clunk from neutral to first, a lot louder then my last 3 Harleys. I get a lot of clonking that sounds like chain slap but the dealer's say it's just the compensator.
I live in Michigan and it won't be long and she will be put up for the winter and my Warranty runs out this December.
We all know that sometimes on this Forum, a lot of people go buy a item just because every one seems to be buying one, I don't have the $ to waist on the next new thing.
I hope to hear more that it will make the primary work smoother and quieter and not just because it "might" help the IPB.
According to the parts manual, the double row angular bearing #37906-60 (equivalent to industry #5207) located inside the clutch basket 37813-06A is built as a lateral positioning device more than a radial load bearing. It is designed to accommodate a slight misalignment with the hub assembly when all clutch disks are set free. I would worry more about it's limited operating temperature (250-300°F) than the tension of the chain itself.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by drukanfu
I'm gonna put a temperature gage on my primary ...lol.
HD Formula +
If you use an online oil viscosity calculator for bearings (typ. SKF) you will obtain the required viscosity at a given temperature under normal load of the IPB.
At 150 Deg Celsius the 5207 calls for a viscosity ~8 [mm^2/sec] (HTHS)
At 100C it's ~15
At 40C it's ~150*
*edit= (150 is the equivalent viscosity at 40C meaning a grade 40-50 oil will still be efficient when reaching 150C)
From these values you can evaluate your driving habits and see where you stand. Formula+ is perfect for people "in the middle" of a sample, like you and me [today]
Last edited by Expat1; Oct 30, 2012 at 02:47 AM.
Reason: IPB oil degrades and should be changed more often.
I live here in the Smoky Mountains, 90% of my riding is on twisty roads and most of the time I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear using a lot of engine braking, I can't to see how that small spring on the Hayden will keep tension on the upper portion of the primary chain when using the engine to slow down a 900 lbs + of bike and rider. That upper chain must be slapping the primary top.
I live here in the Smoky Mountains, 90% of my riding is on twisty roads and most of the time I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear using a lot of engine braking, I can't to see how that small spring on the Hayden will keep tension on the upper portion of the primary chain when using the engine to slow down a 900 lbs + of bike and rider. That upper chain must be slapping the primary top.
The Hayden M6 tensioner uses two springs...one inside the other. Just by feel, I think the Hayden is as strong and maybe stronger then the stock tensioner spring.
My complaint with the stock system is it either takes up too much slack tightening the chain or the teeth slip allowing the tensioner to unadjust causing the chain to flop around.
I've had the Hayden on for a few thousand miles and recently removed the outer primary housing to inspect the tensioner. I found no evidence of the primary chain making contact with any part of the housing.
I can report I've spent quite a bit of time in the north Ga, Tn, and the Carolina hills (as well as the nice hills here in New England) using the Hayden system. And, like you, I use engine braking for many of those rides...so far, so good.
I installed a couple in our bikes hoping to reduce the neutral to first clunk. Did not help that at all. Both chains were not tight either. 10 k on one bike and 700 miles on the other one.
I live here in the Smoky Mountains, 90% of my riding is on twisty roads and most of the time I'm in 2nd or 3rd gear using a lot of engine braking, I can't to see how that small spring on the Hayden will keep tension on the upper portion of the primary chain when using the engine to slow down a 900 lbs + of bike and rider. That upper chain must be slapping the primary top.
I've been wondering the same thing, if the spring relaxed during hard downshifting the chains got to be really loose and slapping the top cover. I've read more than one comment to that affect.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.