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Did any of you mount the oil channel on the chaincase cover to direct oil to the compensator?
Yes, design wise it appears to direct oil over the thrust bearing in the new compensator so don't know why anyone would not install it? I took my cleaned primary to my local dealer and talked one of the mechanics into putting a bead of the required adhesive on the plastic part for me and I clamped it in place to dry on the primary cover. Mechanic got his lunch for free that day. HD wanted a rediculas amount to buy the adhesive not to mention a tube would probably do 10 or more installations. Mine was installed more than a year ago and I just had my primary off to check the chain tensioner and the plastic oil cup part is still bonded in place and my SE comp is doing fine.
Yes, design wise it appears to direct oil over the thrust bearing in the new compensator so don't know why anyone would not install it? I took my cleaned primary to my local dealer and talked one of the mechanics into putting a bead of the required adhesive on the plastic part for me and I clamped it in place to dry on the primary cover. Mechanic got his lunch for free that day. HD wanted a rediculas amount to buy the adhesive not to mention a tube would probably do 10 or more installations. Mine was installed more than a year ago and I just had my primary off to check the chain tensioner and the plastic oil cup part is still bonded in place and my SE comp is doing fine.
JB weld works fine.. The main reason HD uses special epoxy is setup time.. It's shorter. In fact epoxies with longer setup times typically have better high temp strength.. Was told this by an applications engineer from 3bond while looking for a high temp application at the last job I worked.
I was just told the something about redline that I have been using for years. However after having clutch and primary rebuilt due to failure and all under warranty, the dealer used syn3 tranny fluid even though I really didn't want to use that. I have to say that my bike runs really good. So for now I will continue to run this in my bike.
I'm running a 2009 SE Ultra with a 110 and it's just shy of 48K miles. I'm on my third compensator (installed under warranty) which was Harley's latest version in March, 2014. This one has eliminated the backfiring but when I shut the engine off, the crank rocks back and forth. I was told by the same dealer this is will cause damage but their explanation wasn't clear.
Anyway, the primary will be opened this month to replace the stock chain tensioner with a Hayden M8-BT07 and the clutch pack with Barnett's kevlar kit. Both were recommended by a local INDY with Harley certifications. While it's in the shop, I'm tempted to install Baker's compensator but I would need to replace the rotor too which adds up to $600 through Baker.
Do you think compensator wear is causing the problem I'm having with the crank rocking back and forth ?
I didn't read all the threads but I've been using Red Line and no issues with a 2011 RKC - 76,000 miles - I put 42oz in the primary every change and I bet most HD deanships only add 32oz. Look at the owners manual and see how much it calls fall? My book states 1.4 qts.
I mentioned this to a service writer one time and his response was we would have to charge more and 1qt is OK. So, in my opinion they could be the problem....my 2 cents.
I'm running a 2009 SE Ultra with a 110 and it's just shy of 48K miles. I'm on my third compensator (installed under warranty) which was Harley's latest version in March, 2014. This one has eliminated the backfiring but when I shut the engine off, the crank rocks back and forth. I was told by the same dealer this is will cause damage but their explanation wasn't clear.
Anyway, the primary will be opened this month to replace the stock chain tensioner with a Hayden M8-BT07 and the clutch pack with Barnett's kevlar kit. Both were recommended by a local INDY with Harley certifications. While it's in the shop, I'm tempted to install Baker's compensator but I would need to replace the rotor too which adds up to $600 through Baker.
Do you think compensator wear is causing the problem I'm having with the crank rocking back and forth ?
If you installed a 2014 comp you should have the right rotor. I would stay with the stock tensioner.
I didn't read all the threads but I've been using Red Line and no issues with a 2011 RKC - 76,000 miles - I put 42oz in the primary every change and I bet most HD deanships only add 32oz. Look at the owners manual and see how much it calls fall? My book states 1.4 qts.
I mentioned this to a service writer one time and his response was we would have to charge more and 1qt is OK. So, in my opinion they could be the problem....my 2 cents.
If you are talking service manual, it likely need 1.4 Qts when the outer primary cover is pulled off. Some of your secret to comp longevity may be the oil used and your riding style.
Add: Have you had any issue with clutch drag? The more common way to fill the primary is to add oil until it touches the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike upright.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Jan 1, 2017 at 11:03 AM.
Oil, any oil in the primary will lube but may not be clutch happy. Then as the oil ages with heat it degrades. last year I started having a shifting issue. opinion was tear apart the primary, maybe the comp or clutch. I was using ATF Trick shift as a test and it ran many miles with solid clutch engagement. I did not suspect the oil.
However, I had enough to replace the oil and within a few miles the issue was gone. no other adjustment or work done, just new oil.
I'm running a 2009 SE Ultra with a 110 and it's just shy of 48K miles. I'm on my third compensator (installed under warranty) which was Harley's latest version in March, 2014. This one has eliminated the backfiring but when I shut the engine off, the crank rocks back and forth. I was told by the same dealer this is will cause damage but their explanation wasn't clear.
Anyway, the primary will be opened this month to replace the stock chain tensioner with a Hayden M8-BT07 and the clutch pack with Barnett's kevlar kit. Both were recommended by a local INDY with Harley certifications. While it's in the shop, I'm tempted to install Baker's compensator but I would need to replace the rotor too which adds up to $600 through Baker.
Do you think compensator wear is causing the problem I'm having with the crank rocking back and forth ?
I have done all that you have done and the Baker resolved all my issues, running like new now and I have an 09, let me also say that if you go with the Baker you also have to change your stator cover
Last edited by Hawkeyerffr; Jan 2, 2017 at 08:39 AM.
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