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SE comp gone bad!

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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 07:47 AM
  #31  
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I did not. Nothing mentioned it from Baker. There are different models of outer covers too. One model you have to grind clearance for the Baker Drivetrain unit. But I did not have to modify anything. I did have to buy the outer part of the stator though as I have a 2010 and that year has that outer cup that is in the way.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 08:23 AM
  #32  
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No need of an oiling tray thingy with the Baker unit. It does not have the issues the SE unit has. Very simple piece.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 11:40 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
When that one goes bad put a Baker comp in it!

earlier in this thread you had 60k on the SE unit, so why are you suggesting the Baker now.

Originally Posted by soft 02
No need of an oiling tray thingy with the Baker unit. It does not have the issues the SE unit has. Very simple piece.


it was designed not to need one. Have followed many discussions on the Baker, have not found one that ends with it is perfect. That is not to say it is not better, just wondering if you have switched to the Baker.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 11:46 AM
  #34  
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I have the 1st gen SE comp installed now for some 40k miles (converted from 60k KM).
would have to check records, it did start knocking so installed an extra spring as a spacer and it is still going strong. spring was from original comp.
Have concluded the spring pack is the cause of the problem. In fact another forum shows a way to measure a brand new assembly before install to make sure the springs are at a certain height to avoid the knock early on.
Imagine the quality of manufacturing when you have to shim a new comp.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 12:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
earlier in this thread you had 60k on the SE unit, so why are you suggesting the Baker now.





it was designed not to need one. Have followed many discussions on the Baker, have not found one that ends with it is perfect. That is not to say it is not better, just wondering if you have switched to the Baker.

Early in this thread I was on my second se comp. After the 5th one I needed something that would work. Now I have 140k on my motor and over 10k on my Baker comp with no noise and better opperation.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 04:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AlCherry
Did any of you mount the oil channel on the chaincase cover to direct oil to the compensator?
Yes I did..
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 04:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by alcris47
Yes I did..
I'll be curious to see if the dealer installed the oil scupper thingy when they put in the SE Compehsator,
 
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 05:05 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
I'll be curious to see if the dealer installed the oil scupper thingy when they put in the SE Compehsator,
When you remove the cover, see if the comp is held in position with a Torx head bolt. If not, if you have a hex head bolt, your version SE comp is pre little oil scoop and you won't have one. The newer production bikes, not sure what the first year was, have the little scoop cast into the primary cover, so not seeing the little plastic scoop doesn't guaranty you don't have the scoop at all. My scoot is too old so I don't know what the permanent, cast in scoop looks like.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 07:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by btsom
The newer production bikes, not sure what the first year was, have the little scoop cast into the primary cover, so not seeing the little plastic scoop doesn't guaranty you don't have the scoop at all
I believe the model year 2014 production bikes contain the cast in scoop in the outer primary.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 07:58 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
I have the 1st gen SE comp installed now for some 40k miles (converted from 60k KM).
would have to check records, it did start knocking so installed an extra spring as a spacer and it is still going strong. spring was from original comp.
Have concluded the spring pack is the cause of the problem. In fact another forum shows a way to measure a brand new assembly before install to make sure the springs are at a certain height to avoid the knock early on.
Imagine the quality of manufacturing when you have to shim a new comp.
Which one of the spring plates did you add and in what direction did you put it? thanks
 
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