A bit off topic, but never tie electrical wires, and hydraulic lines together. The movement from the hydraulic line can chaff the wire, and cause it to ground out. In this case it made a fuse pop, but I have seen fires start from doing this.

 

Your obviously not a hands on person, did you ever think that the switch can click and still not have correct contact ?..........hummmm ?
Screw your dysfunctional logic and just loosen up the five (5) simple crews and do as I say and try it..... (melon head)....

 

Well, considering that I rebuilt the topside with the big bore, upgraded the cams and clutch by myself. All from reading a book and it started on the first try...I would say that I am a little bit hands on.
AND no I didn't think that since it makes no sense, so I am asking others not you since you obviously, think that you know more than you do.
The relay triggers from from the switches in the lever and the break pedal. So if the front switch was the problem it would act on the relay
tripped it so it could not relay again from the front and the rear. In fact, when I push the front lever and hold it, it clicks and then push the rear, it does not because it is already tripped. When I push the rear and hold it it trips and then push the front, it does not because it is already tripped. So both the switches are working. So unless someone can explain how that a bad switch in the lever can bypass the brake relay and trigger the brake lights, while still clicking when depressed, I am ruling that out.

 

You are confusing someone else with me. I did not find anything with the fender. I do however believe that you are correct. 2 issues. so the the first issue is the brake light. I believe that I found the short causing the lighting fuse to blow. So the only issue is the brake lights staying on. and I removed the aftermarket flasher early into this troubleshooting. The logical split? Where is that? I uploaded a picture of the wiring harness, can you mark it for me and what am I suppose to check there?

 

If you know so much about bikes, how come you got yourself in this mess Einstein ? I think your screw'in with it too much..... by the way did ya do what I told ya to do..........No, ya stubborn bitch ! Even if you did and it worked I don't trust you'd ever admit to it. Your a piece of work in progress....

 

difficult to diagnose with only main harness displayed and no key for numbers.

My proposal for dividing the possible short locations was for the blown fuse and I proposed removing the aftermarket brake module to solve the brake light issue.

To solve the blown fuse the logical 1/2 split would be #65,67,69 - Rear Lightingand #66, #68 Tour pack to seperate the main harness from the rear lights on the fender and tour pack lighting harness.

To check for brake light staying on, assuming you did unplug the aftermarket module and replug as factory - I would check both brake light switches, 1 at your right foot, the other in the right handlebar switch housing.

Start with right foot switch, brake pedal has a pressure switch plugged in at master cylinder reservoir, unplug the switch and test system using the right hand brake switch. Brake stays on - plug the rear brake pressure switch back in.

Next is the switch in the handlebars. You will need to disassemble the right hand control to access the brake switch. Unplug #42 and #42 from the switch and test using the rear brake pedal. Brake light staying on would suggest you have a short somewhere between the unplugged pressure switches

 

edited

 

Yes, I unplugged the aftermarket and unplugging each is a good idea. I will try that.

 

As for the short that is blowing the fuse, I am sure that I found that, I will fix it later.

 

So where was it? Figured ya had a short somewhere.