2003 flhtcui
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
A bit off topic, but never tie electrical wires, and hydraulic lines together. The movement from the hydraulic line can chaff the wire, and cause it to ground out. In this case it made a fuse pop, but I have seen fires start from doing this.
Supporter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,189
Likes: 16
From: N.E. Wisconsin
I did no work before this. It just happened.
If I understand the way relays work is the switch is activated and then the brake light comes on. So if the switch was stuck on then the relay would be activated which it is not. So, what is the point of tearing apart something else and chance breaking it, if logic says that it cannot be the issue.
If I understand the way relays work is the switch is activated and then the brake light comes on. So if the switch was stuck on then the relay would be activated which it is not. So, what is the point of tearing apart something else and chance breaking it, if logic says that it cannot be the issue.
Screw your dysfunctional logic and just loosen up the five (5) simple crews and do as I say and try it..... (melon head)....
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Cape Canaveral, FL
AND no I didn't think that since it makes no sense, so I am asking others not you since you obviously, think that you know more than you do.
The relay triggers from from the switches in the lever and the break pedal. So if the front switch was the problem it would act on the relay
tripped it so it could not relay again from the front and the rear. In fact, when I push the front lever and hold it, it clicks and then push the rear, it does not because it is already tripped. When I push the rear and hold it it trips and then push the front, it does not because it is already tripped. So both the switches are working. So unless someone can explain how that a bad switch in the lever can bypass the brake relay and trigger the brake lights, while still clicking when depressed, I am ruling that out.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Cape Canaveral, FL
Sounds like you have 2 problems, brake and run lights. You found a short in the front fender liight wire so may have solved the running light problem. Electrical shorts are difficult to trace so the best you can do is find a logical place to cut your work in 1/2. If fixing the fender light solved the blown fuse you have solved 1 of your 2 problems. Maybe the brake light has been stuck on awhile and you just didn't know it. Put it all back together and find the logical split 1/2 between the tail light and fairing. I would unplug the aftermarket brake module and plug back factory and if you have brake lght on off then the module may have failed.
Last edited by ToyjoHa; Dec 3, 2012 at 08:56 PM.
Supporter
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,189
Likes: 16
From: N.E. Wisconsin
Well, considering that I rebuilt the topside with the big bore, upgraded the cams and clutch by myself. All from reading a book and it started on the first try...I would say that I am a little bit hands on.
AND no I didn't think that since it makes no sense, so I am asking others not you since you obviously, think that you know more than you do.
The relay triggers from from the switches in the lever and the break pedal. So if the front switch was the problem it would act on the relay
tripped it so it could not relay again from the front and the rear. In fact, when I push the front lever and hold it, it clicks and then push the rear, it does not because it is already tripped. When I push the rear and hold it it trips and then push the front, it does not because it is already tripped. So both the switches are working. So unless someone can explain how that a bad switch in the lever can bypass the brake relay and trigger the brake lights, while still clicking when depressed, I am ruling that out.
AND no I didn't think that since it makes no sense, so I am asking others not you since you obviously, think that you know more than you do.
The relay triggers from from the switches in the lever and the break pedal. So if the front switch was the problem it would act on the relay
tripped it so it could not relay again from the front and the rear. In fact, when I push the front lever and hold it, it clicks and then push the rear, it does not because it is already tripped. When I push the rear and hold it it trips and then push the front, it does not because it is already tripped. So both the switches are working. So unless someone can explain how that a bad switch in the lever can bypass the brake relay and trigger the brake lights, while still clicking when depressed, I am ruling that out.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
My proposal for dividing the possible short locations was for the blown fuse and I proposed removing the aftermarket brake module to solve the brake light issue.
To solve the blown fuse the logical 1/2 split would be #65,67,69 - Rear Lightingand #66, #68 Tour pack to seperate the main harness from the rear lights on the fender and tour pack lighting harness.
To check for brake light staying on, assuming you did unplug the aftermarket module and replug as factory - I would check both brake light switches, 1 at your right foot, the other in the right handlebar switch housing.
Start with right foot switch, brake pedal has a pressure switch plugged in at master cylinder reservoir, unplug the switch and test system using the right hand brake switch. Brake stays on - plug the rear brake pressure switch back in.
Next is the switch in the handlebars. You will need to disassemble the right hand control to access the brake switch. Unplug #42 and #42 from the switch and test using the rear brake pedal. Brake light staying on would suggest you have a short somewhere between the unplugged pressure switches
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Cape Canaveral, FL
Start with right foot switch, brake pedal has a pressure switch plugged in at master cylinder reservoir, unplug the switch and test system using the right hand brake switch. Brake stays on - plug the rear brake pressure switch back in.
Next is the switch in the handlebars. You will need to disassemble the right hand control to access the brake switch. Unplug #42 and #42 from the switch and test using the rear brake pedal. Brake light staying on would suggest you have a short somewhere between the unplugged pressure switches
Next is the switch in the handlebars. You will need to disassemble the right hand control to access the brake switch. Unplug #42 and #42 from the switch and test using the rear brake pedal. Brake light staying on would suggest you have a short somewhere between the unplugged pressure switches
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
