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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bklynbob
The Timken bearings/forged cranks ended with the 2002 models............
Cranks 03 to 06 were still cold forged ( adequate,) though the Timken bearing was gone. 07 and later were cast = Junk.

Compare the posts between 03 and 06 vs 07 and 08 when it comes to scissored cranks

You can still gear drive 03 to 06. But measure it first.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadKing2438
Subscribed.....Thinking about doing the same thing with my 2000 RK. Was told that 99-02 were the best candidate for the gear drive. Anyone know this to be true?
Gear drives have been in my 2000 for the last 41,000 miles. The bike just hit 121,000 miles this past week. Best HD motor I've ever owned.

( I personally won't own anything after '02. And there are lots of 2000 / 2001 garage queen S/E Road Glides out there for $10,000 or so. So I'm set for life)
 
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 09:50 PM
  #13  
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CAN THE RUN OUT BE CHECK WITH THE CAM PLATE STILL ON,, OR DOES IT HAVE TO BE REMOVED TO GET THE BEARING OUT OF THE WAY,,ooops sorry caps,,,i guess ill have to tear it down first t check it,,what will i need to tear it down to check??? put it back together so i acn still ride till the parts get here,,gear cams or just put in new tensioners?? that is the ????,,,got 40k on her now,,checked them at 36k,and they were not bad,outer looked real good ,inner had some wear but not much at all,.
thanks again,mike
 
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 05:22 AM
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I don't recall seeing a description of how to check crank runout, for gear cams. Hopefully someone will point us in the right direction!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #15  
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yes, 99 to 02 were the best bottom end engines HD made, 07 and later I would not own, I have my last bike and will rebuild, customize and make it into what I want and like, is a easy bike to work on, has a carb and I like simplicity, things are so over engineered these days...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jmn1960
CAN THE RUN OUT BE CHECK WITH THE CAM PLATE STILL ON,, OR DOES IT HAVE TO BE REMOVED TO GET THE BEARING OUT OF THE WAY,,ooops sorry caps,,,i guess ill have to tear it down first t check it,,what will i need to tear it down to check??? put it back together so i acn still ride till the parts get here,,gear cams or just put in new tensioners?? that is the ????,,,got 40k on her now,,checked them at 36k,and they were not bad,outer looked real good ,inner had some wear but not much at all,.
thanks again,mike
Runout with the cam plate on will be slightly different than that while removed. Some check it both ways just to see if the plate brings it into spec.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 11:17 PM
  #17  
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Jesus, if the plate 'brings it into spec", there are some REAL issues going on.... and as soon as the bushing and pump get worn out... the plate will NO longer be worth a ****.

Crank should always be checked with the cam plate OFF.

And... for stiggy... all the cranks on 07 up, just like 03-06 are all cold forged. It's NOT the forging that hurts and NO, and I mean NO crank is cast. (where do folks get these ideas, anyways)... The problems is with a pressed crank, that small itsy bitsy 3/8 more stoke exposes the inadequacy of a pressed together crank. I bent a crank on a new 96 once from a panic stop where I didn't pull the clutch in fast enough.

All cranks will bend and some will bend the splines even, but for the most part what happen is the crank scissors at the press joints and poof... junk.

All the Moco would need to do, but too damn cheap is properly plug the cranks. I can't think of too many S&S cranks that scissored since they started pro plugging their cranks.... which is... OH NO! cold forged.

Anyone considering gears, even with an 88 should look closely at the crank runout. 07 up cranks is REALLY a crap shoot. I do NOT recommend gears for 07 up anymore. No reason to do so. Ya know... an 05 and an 07 crank are made with identical forgings and metallurgy. Its the press that comes apart. And..... as an aside on cranks... John sees a helluva lot of 07 up cranks twisting the splines, too. It is really quite easy to do a build that over powers that cheap *** crank.

Don't believe me? Of course not.... but call John Dahlmer at Hobans and ask him.

Me? I say to the OP to forget the gears. Put new shoes in and ride for awhile. The second set of shoes last quite a bit longer than the first, due to the original shoes polishing the chains. I have the Cyco tool for shoe replacements, the tool was like $20, and replacement Cyco shoes are like $6 each.
 

Last edited by wurk_truk; Dec 6, 2012 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 03:41 AM
  #18  
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WURK TRUK: Cast vs Forged, "Where do folks get these ideas anyway?"

Please see the link below.

Stiggy

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...7hoxhIR2XXalbw

That's where we get these ideas!
 

Last edited by Stiggy; Dec 7, 2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 04:43 AM
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Thanks Stiggy for posting that. We can put that subject to bed now. I reckon I'll be happy with around 135 square thanks......

As an engineer I can say with some confidence that a forged crank will not be formed when cold! What that video shows is that the crank pin is frozen to aid assembly, after all parts are machined, but that will apply to both forged and cast cranks.
 
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