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I look at this design and wonder why do they do this? Running a steel chain on a plastic shoe.
It will eventually wear out. This is classic friction mechanism that simply is not optimal.
The plastic will lose eventually. I am curious what that material is. Regardless if I were designing
something to interact with a moving chain in would be a roller, of sufficient hardness
to properly interact with a steel chain.
I have one with less than 1500 miles on it. Minimal wear. $50 if anyone is interested. Went back to stock. I felt like it was keeping the chain to tight. I only had about 1/4" of gap.
I have a 2001 RK that has about 36K miles on it (I'm 2nd owner and only put 16K on it since 2008) and about 16K miles ago, my HD service mgr suggested that I switch to the new version of adjuster. The reason was that I 'thought' I was chasing a vibration. No real change in the vibration as it was probably in my head. Now I started reading this post and figured I'd change my primary fluid, adjust the clutch and check the tension. It's tight. So my next question is.......(drum role). Should I just put the original back in or reset the new version. I would think there isn't really any reason not to put the 2001 original version back in since my chain has certainly stretched about as far as it will stretch, yes?? I really don't want to spend any coin on a new one due to my possibly selling the bike. Thoughts, please??
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by tonebone_79
It's pure genius, I like it!
You will also notice that during a hot restart the starter motor engages, then the chain goes under tension as the shoe goes down just before the engine is started. There is less stress on the battery because the starter motor spins a fraction of a second before dealing with compression. I'm happy about this
You will also notice that during a hot restart the starter motor engages, then the chain goes under tension as the shoe goes down just before the engine is started. There is less stress on the battery because the starter motor spins a fraction of a second before dealing with compression. I'm happy about this
Hmm....I wonder if this is why I have not had a single starter kick back since installing the tensioner, even when hot with SE255s installed.
I installed the Hayden M6 during my last 5k service and upgrade to Baker 7 Speed. So now 5k later, I have another service and decided to open up the primary and check on the M6. Just as Kathy at Hayden said, exactly what I was expecting. Compression Area measured 5/16”, rollers were not touching the shoe and springs looked just like I installed them 5k ago. When I first installed the M6, my compression area was just under 1/4”. The chain side plates have settled into the shoe accounting for the 5/16” measurement. Can’t believe someone actually took a belt sander and removed material off the shoe, to make it better? Kathy, hope to see ya at Street Vibrations next weekend? I’m going with my son, he has a new Switchback. Ride Safe!
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