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Making clutch pull easier.

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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 04:57 AM
  #11  
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I too have arthritis in the hands. I picked up some racquetballs from wally world. I have been squeezing them and its been helping me a lot.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:59 AM
  #12  
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The clutch ramp on my 1990 FLHS was a 15° ramp. Most are 18°. The 15° was much easier to pull, but as someone here mentioned, it needs to be adjusted more precisely. I wore out a couple throwout bearings before I just put in an 18° ramp.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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I tried the Easy Boy Lite kit, but found that the change in the lenght resulted in real quick engagement. I took it off and put on an AMP unit.http://www.amp-research.com/products...clutch-assist/
This really helped ... used it for about 6 months until my hand got better.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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They probably cost way, way, more, but the hydraulic clutch on the CVO RKC pulls easy.
Wonder what the conversion price is to do that?

I have chronic tendinitis in my elbows L&I injury, my hands, forearms, wrists affected. Thankful for the cruise control.
 

Last edited by mgmmgm; Dec 20, 2012 at 10:23 AM. Reason: CRS
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rodnock
Due to Arthritis I am beginning to feel some discomfort in my clutch hAND when riding in city traffic and having to change gears a lot. What can I do to make the clutch pull easier? It doesn't seem to pull any harder than normal.

Bike is a 97 FLHTC.
The AIM VPC is a bit pricey to reduce pull effort but it will do that. I would first try replaceing the cable with a replacement cable that is teflon lined; the early cables are not. Also, there is an H-D reduced effort ramp kit that combined with a new cable, might reduce the pull effort to a level that works and you won't need to spend the money for the VPC.

Some of the aftermarket reduced effort kits require some grinding in the case for clearance.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by djl
Also, there is an H-D reduced effort ramp kit that combined with a new cable, might reduce the pull effort to a level that works and you won't need to spend the money for the VPC.

Some of the aftermarket reduced effort kits require some grinding in the case for clearance.
I had the Reduced Effort Clutch kit installed on my RKC - it is GREAT!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by okcjetmech
I put one of these on my '03. Easy install and a night and day difference.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #18  
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I had a Clutchlite installed on my 1990 bike (similar to the other devices already mentioned). Earlier bikes like mine are more critical on getting adjustment just right, which I found unacceptable. I later installed a Diamondback cable and found pull is so much smoother and lighter that I removed the Clutchlite. For a 1997 bike you should be able to fit both and still get decent clutch release, plus much better lever effort.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I had a Clutchlite installed on my 1990 bike (similar to the other devices already mentioned). Earlier bikes like mine are more critical on getting adjustment just right, which I found unacceptable. I later installed a Diamondback cable and found pull is so much smoother and lighter that I removed the Clutchlite. For a 1997 bike you should be able to fit both and still get decent clutch release, plus much better lever effort.
I am gonna try the clutchlite first right after the holidays. My cable is in good shape and I keep it lubed so I'll wait on changing out the cable. Thanks to all for the responses.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by rodnock
I am gonna try the clutchlite first right after the holidays. My cable is in good shape and I keep it lubed so I'll wait on changing out the cable. Thanks to all for the responses.
You have to disconnect the cable to install the Cluthclite; might as well change cable to a teflon coated cable. A lubed cable won't compare with the light pull of the teflon lined cable; you will appreciate the difference.
 
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