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Check Engine Light??

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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 05:53 AM
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Good Morning All, I'm looking for a little help/knowledge. Yes, I did the search before I began writing this, but couldn't find anything that matched the problem I'm having.

I have an '11 SG with 28,9XX miles on it. Yesterday on the way home, the check engine light would come on while at idle at stop lights. When I reved the throttle some, it would turn off, then as it returned to idle come back on. When I got out of downtown traffic and turned it loose on the interstate, all went back to normal, and didn't see it again. I've seen the threads talking about folks having issues while running/in motion, but nothing at idle. Wondering if anyone has seen the same, and what their solution was. At first I started to think maybe an O2 sensor is starting to go. I've found the threads that talk about how to check codes, and will be doing that this morning.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 06:26 AM
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Update, checked codes, none found in any section of PSSPtb.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 07:10 AM
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What is your oil pressure @ when idling?
If thats when the light comes on that guage would be the 1st I would look at, especially if reving the throttle makes it go off.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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When idling it seemed normal at around 5 psi. I am running Amsoil 10W-40 right now.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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Rather light oil for FL but you say it was not oil light. I run the 20-50 here on the coast and I run all year. It should have set a code. You say you ran the WOW test and have the correct procedure? If not I will post it here.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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I went through all of the PSSPtb with this procedure (Thanks to JTAY123). Came up empty... Is this the correct procedure that you have?

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range
and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module)
to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module (EFI) / (Ignition Control Module, 'Carbureted')
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be
displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up.
Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9.
If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
 

Last edited by kwrose66; Dec 28, 2012 at 08:46 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 08:50 AM
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That's it.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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Thanks for the help, I haven't seen it since. Although I did change the air cleaner from the HD Screamin' Eagle Heavy Breather to an S&S Stealth. I did notice a big change in overall performance, and the motor seems much quieter.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:37 AM
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I do have to ask why you would run a 10W-40 oil living in South Florida? (I run an older bike so I don't know what the new temperature specs are in the new owners manuals.)
 
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kwrose66
When idling it seemed normal at around 5 psi. I am running Amsoil 10W-40 right now.
I hope you mean 20W-50.
 
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