Torque Cam and Heat
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,196
Likes: 14
From: connecticut
Friends dont let friends use 255 cams.
Do yourself a favor and choose a reputable engine builder and follow their recommended engine packages. If you want the most out of your engine bore it out to a 107 and up the compression to 10:5 to 1 and install a cam that works with that compression ratio. With the proper pipe and tune you should be around 100 hp 110 torque.
Do yourself a favor and choose a reputable engine builder and follow their recommended engine packages. If you want the most out of your engine bore it out to a 107 and up the compression to 10:5 to 1 and install a cam that works with that compression ratio. With the proper pipe and tune you should be around 100 hp 110 torque.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,197
From: Oxford, Nc
And weren't we talking about heat issues? It helps to read the OP's query completely sometimes...
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
After installing the Andrews 57H in my 2010 103" motor, I can honestly say that I cannot feel any additional heat at all. Since they have been in for only a few weeks, I have not had them in summer here yet. But, judging from what I am feeling on these moderate days of 60ish degrees or so, it almost seems cooler.
The ramps on the 57Hs are much steeper than stock and the lobes are broader, so the heat is not being held in the heads nearly as long as stock. So based on the cam design and tuning parameters, you can enjoy the increased torque with the same or may be less heat.
If you stay with the HD cams, you may get a different result.
Here's a pic of the 57H grinds compared to the pitiful stock cams from my 103. Apart from the poor stock cam construction, take a look at the shape differences in the lobes. I think it's a pretty stunning comparison.
The ramps on the 57Hs are much steeper than stock and the lobes are broader, so the heat is not being held in the heads nearly as long as stock. So based on the cam design and tuning parameters, you can enjoy the increased torque with the same or may be less heat.
If you stay with the HD cams, you may get a different result.
Here's a pic of the 57H grinds compared to the pitiful stock cams from my 103. Apart from the poor stock cam construction, take a look at the shape differences in the lobes. I think it's a pretty stunning comparison.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
se255 in 103
EDIT: sorry about the long, and OT post here, but this also includes info about your supposed choice of cams, the SE255.
Funny, I did bolt ons, se 255 cams, and a TTS tune from the TTS list and the durned thing runs very well. I must have done something wrong according to some folks to have this kind of success with a "bad" cam! The roll on is great, with power from the bottom of the power curve well up to six grand. It isn't as strong up above 5,000 as some, but does very well for a mild upgrade that won't beat up the valvetrain like some aftermarket cams. And that part (beating up the valvetrain) is VERY important to me.
On the heat issue, sure it will build heat, but it is less on my 2011 Limited than it was stock! The tune helps a lot, and it is as much how you ride as well. Run the crap out of it and pull up to a light and it will be hot! Duh! I have 17,000 miles on this 255/Limited 103 combo and don't regret it at all.
Any cam you put in it that will hit a higher torque peak will lose it somewhere. Most performance cams will run a tighter lobe seperation and the result is less roll on torque up to somewhere around 2500 rpm. They pull harder there , but have sacrificed some of that low speed roll on I like so much. So the choice is yours on cams. The 255 is a great cam for the $$, usually $150 used. A rollercam that shows no obvious signs of ware is just fine for a new bike as well. There just isn't a problem with ware with them.
Funny, I did bolt ons, se 255 cams, and a TTS tune from the TTS list and the durned thing runs very well. I must have done something wrong according to some folks to have this kind of success with a "bad" cam! The roll on is great, with power from the bottom of the power curve well up to six grand. It isn't as strong up above 5,000 as some, but does very well for a mild upgrade that won't beat up the valvetrain like some aftermarket cams. And that part (beating up the valvetrain) is VERY important to me.
On the heat issue, sure it will build heat, but it is less on my 2011 Limited than it was stock! The tune helps a lot, and it is as much how you ride as well. Run the crap out of it and pull up to a light and it will be hot! Duh! I have 17,000 miles on this 255/Limited 103 combo and don't regret it at all.
Any cam you put in it that will hit a higher torque peak will lose it somewhere. Most performance cams will run a tighter lobe seperation and the result is less roll on torque up to somewhere around 2500 rpm. They pull harder there , but have sacrificed some of that low speed roll on I like so much. So the choice is yours on cams. The 255 is a great cam for the $$, usually $150 used. A rollercam that shows no obvious signs of ware is just fine for a new bike as well. There just isn't a problem with ware with them.
Last edited by gregsdart; Jan 12, 2013 at 08:52 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,916
Likes: 31
From: earth
Now theres an answer with some merit. Generally speaking most aftermarket cams have timing priofiles that are not "EPA" compliant, They are designed for max power not max efficiency. They allow a bigger charge to come in which helps to cool the combustion chamber from the previous burnt charge, and they keep the charge inside the combustion chamber for a shorter period which means less "heat sink" both contribute to a slightly cooler running motor.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
EDIT: sorry about the long, and OT post here, but this also includes info about your supposed choice of cams, the SE255.
Funny, I did bolt ons, se 255 cams, and a TTS tune from the TTS list and the durned thing runs very well. I must have done something wrong according to some folks to have this kind of success with a "bad" cam! The roll on is great, with power from the bottom of the power curve well up to six grand. It isn't as strong up above 5,000 as some, but does very well for a mild upgrade that won't beat up the valvetrain like some aftermarket cams. And that part (beating up the valvetrain) is VERY important to me.
On the heat issue, sure it will build heat, but it is less on my 2011 Limited than it was stock! The tune helps a lot, and it is as much how you ride as well. Run the crap out of it and pull up to a light and it will be hot! Duh! I have 17,000 miles on this 255/Limited 103 combo and don't regret it at all.
Any cam you put in it that will hit a higher torque peak will lose it somewhere. Most performance cams will run a tighter lobe seperation and the result is less roll on torque up to somewhere around 2500 rpm. They pull harder there , but have sacrificed some of that low speed roll on I like so much. So the choice is yours on cams. The 255 is a great cam for the $$, usually $150 used. A rollercam that shows no obvious signs of ware is just fine for a new bike as well. There just isn't a problem with ware with them.
Funny, I did bolt ons, se 255 cams, and a TTS tune from the TTS list and the durned thing runs very well. I must have done something wrong according to some folks to have this kind of success with a "bad" cam! The roll on is great, with power from the bottom of the power curve well up to six grand. It isn't as strong up above 5,000 as some, but does very well for a mild upgrade that won't beat up the valvetrain like some aftermarket cams. And that part (beating up the valvetrain) is VERY important to me.
On the heat issue, sure it will build heat, but it is less on my 2011 Limited than it was stock! The tune helps a lot, and it is as much how you ride as well. Run the crap out of it and pull up to a light and it will be hot! Duh! I have 17,000 miles on this 255/Limited 103 combo and don't regret it at all.
Any cam you put in it that will hit a higher torque peak will lose it somewhere. Most performance cams will run a tighter lobe seperation and the result is less roll on torque up to somewhere around 2500 rpm. They pull harder there , but have sacrificed some of that low speed roll on I like so much. So the choice is yours on cams. The 255 is a great cam for the $$, usually $150 used. A rollercam that shows no obvious signs of ware is just fine for a new bike as well. There just isn't a problem with ware with them.
, and I'm moving alot more weight with the Trike. I've surprised more than one 110 CVO with my signature combo.
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The reason I ask is because i'm trying to decide whether or not to put a cam in. Living in Florida I'm always concerned about anything that adds extra heat. I'm not dissatisfied with my bikes performance, but after reading how much everyone loves the improvement, I of course am considering it. With a PV and Fuel Moto tune, exhaust and a/c, it seems to run great. Would like more torque, just don't want to trade reliability for it.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 648
Likes: 9
From: WV
The reason I ask is because i'm trying to decide whether or not to put a cam in. Living in Florida I'm always concerned about anything that adds extra heat. I'm not dissatisfied with my bikes performance, but after reading how much everyone loves the improvement, I of course am considering it. With a PV and Fuel Moto tune, exhaust and a/c, it seems to run great. Would like more torque, just don't want to trade reliability for it.