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looking for cam swap tips

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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:45 AM
  #11  
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Make sure your adjustable push rods are adjusted completly to zero lash (no movement at all up and down) before you do the final adjustment. I found that holding the bottom portion with a wrench and turning the top portion by hand until it bottomed out worked best.

While your in there, look into the Zippers Dual Piston cam chain tensioners and the Baisley Oil Spring.

baisley.com/oil_spring_product.htm
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:58 AM
  #12  
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. Great advice everyone. I watched the youtube video and plan to have my laptop in the garage so I can use it as a reference. Dumb question though. Do you need to drain the oil before starting this?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by KSGLIDEGUY
. Great advice everyone. I watched the youtube video and plan to have my laptop in the garage so I can use it as a reference. Dumb question though. Do you need to drain the oil before starting this?
I wouldn't. A lot will drain from the cam chest once the cover is pulled (probably close to 1/2 qt). When your done the job, top it off and run the bike to get it hot so any debris from the cam install is hopefully flushed from the motor and pulled into the filter. Then drain the oil, remove the filter and refill with new oil & filter.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #14  
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KSGLIDEGUY
. Great advice everyone. I watched the youtube video and plan to have my laptop in the garage so I can use it as a reference. Dumb question though. Do you need to drain the oil before starting this?
No, you do not. Just a bit will come out, top off later if necessary.

Looking to do this as well. Watched a couple of the videos. Seems pretty straightforward. The only thing that really scares me is adjusting the pushrods.
No need to be scared. Just research it enough and you will be fine. To start, get the rear pushrods on the base circle of the new cam by rotating the rear tire (it has to be elevated to rotate it of course) , then starting on the inside rod, extend it until there is no lash...no up and down movement...then you tighten it the appropriate number of turns of the adjuster nut to push the lifter about 1/2 way down through it's travel. repeat for the other rear rod. Give the rear lifters plenty of time to bleed down. You should be able to turn the pushrods with your thumb and index finger once they have bled down an adequate amount. Now, rotate the rear tire to place the front rods on the base circle of the new cams and repeat the procedure. After the front bleeds down, rotate the rear wheel several times and listen to ensure there is no intake and exhaust valve collisions. Once all this is to your satisfaction, install the pushrod tubes.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #16  
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Lube, bag all the parts, take pictures, double and triple check...remember to replace the o ring...check the tensioner shoes...mine were fine at 50000 miles, they were like 90% good so i left them in...the bearing in the freezer works... I rented the blind hole puller and the bearing installer from Auto ZOne...worked like a charm,,,Check crank run out if you can...you can probably buy a dial caliper (think it's what it's called)...take your time and take a break...don't drink too much while you are doing it...Enjoy it, it's very satisfying.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:01 PM
  #17  
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In the video I see they don't touch the bolts to the oil pump, and reinstalls the cam plate with out touching these bolts. I have been told by a lot of people that you have to re align the oil pump when installing the cam plate. just wondering how many people have done it like the video or loosen the oil pump and the realign it. the video way looks a lot easier.

Just getting ready to put a set of cams in my 07 Ultra, not scared of doing the work just trying to make the job simple.


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Last edited by hawwk; Jan 16, 2013 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #18  
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Buy the set of spacer washers from Harley has any size you would need. If going in the top buy low clearance ratchet from Georges garage. Never seize is your friend for reinstalling your exhaust.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by hawwk
In the video I see they don't touch the bolts to the oil pump, and reinstalls the cam plate with out touching these bolts. I have been told by a lot of people that you have to re align the oil pump when installing the cam plate. just wondering how many people have done it like the video or loosen the oil pump and the realign it. the video way looks a lot easier.

Suscribing to this thread for other tips too
I did mine without removing the oil pump. The cam plate is on dowels and the crank is not going anywhere. So what is there to align?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JerryS63
Read on another thread about cams complaining about the FM pushrods not being the easiest to use and recommending using a different set. Based on watching the videos my plan is using someone else push rods when I do mine. Worth at least looking into.
I just put the TW222 cams in two weeks ago and I agree that the FM pushrods are a PIA to install. They are very well made, but if I was doing this again I would use the S&S quickie pushrods.
With 21,000 miles I replaced the lifters with the Woods from FM and they come with light oil in them that makes bleed down faster.
As others have stated take your time it's not that hard and well worth it.
 
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