Going into the primary need help with part #s
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 541
Likes: 3
From: Sherwood Park AB Canada
Thanks for that. So I should be OK with the stock compensator. I am planning to change out the tensioner to the Hayden M6 and I should be good to go.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 280
From: North Cental Iowa
Whatever you do, don't try to push start your bike! That's a good way to shift the cranks on the newer bikes, borrow a trailer or if you have roadside assistance through your insurance use that.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 538
Likes: 3
From: Florida
No real fix for the compensator other than putting a solid gear on that end, I have seen them but don't remember who makes it. For now though the most common repair is to install the SE compensator that now comes standard on bikes and is the only one available. They to have been failing but they tend to hold up better.
The best fix is the SE compensator
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,525
Likes: 6,406
From: Honah Lee
The solid front sprocket is the opposite of what you want to do. Imagine if your motor kicks back with NO compensator to "give"... the next thing down the line takes all of the force (usually starter clutch). Those solid front sprockets are common on lighter bikes set up for racing. You put that on a 800lb touring bike that you start/run all the time and your starter/crankshaft/chain/tensioner/clutch/trans/bearings will be abused.
The best fix is the SE compensator
The best fix is the SE compensator
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5,092
Likes: 2
From: Wenatchee, WA
If you're going to to remove the inner primary then change the inner race for the IPB as well - probably should be changed together anyway. Keep in mind you'll need a puller for this job. It is recommended that you replace the compensator bolt with a new item, ditto the (5) bolts that hold the inner primary to the casing. You'll need an outer primary gasket and the metal inner primary gasket. The comp bolt is right handed while the clutch nut is left threaded. (turn left to tighten - right to loosen). If your starter is not cranking the engine but is spinning, I'd suspect the starter clutch vice the compensator. With the starter removed the pinion should only turn in one direction - jamming in the other. Get a impact drive to remove the screws from the outer primary and a T27 torx for the derby.
Disconnect the battery, let me say that again - disconnect the battery!
Disconnect the battery, let me say that again - disconnect the battery!
Last edited by Assegai; Jan 24, 2013 at 02:31 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: OK
Missed the posts saying no go on the push starting. Got is running and back to the work, about a mile down the road. Got the starter pulled and the AllBallsRacing clutch blew up. The shaft that goes threw the middle of it broke and some pieces are in the primary. Gonna get the parts ordered tomorrow and hopefully be back riding next weekend.
Bike has 58k and some change on it now. As far as I know it was/is the original compensator and clutch. I put the ABR starter clutch on it in October, been a 1000 miles or so.
Thanks for the info on the bolts, when the parts come in the service manual will be with them. Been putting off getting it since I haven't had a real need yet. Guess now is the time.
What type of puller is needed to remove the IPB? I have a good selection since I am a Ford tech so having tools/buying tools isn't a problem.
Bike has 58k and some change on it now. As far as I know it was/is the original compensator and clutch. I put the ABR starter clutch on it in October, been a 1000 miles or so.
Thanks for the info on the bolts, when the parts come in the service manual will be with them. Been putting off getting it since I haven't had a real need yet. Guess now is the time.
What type of puller is needed to remove the IPB? I have a good selection since I am a Ford tech so having tools/buying tools isn't a problem.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,341
Likes: 714
check the baker site i think they got an upgraded ipb,could be a good time to look at the evo industries 49 tooth basket gear.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: OK
The Baker piece is for 07 and older bikes. Maybe next time on the gear. Not going to lie this repair was about a month or two ahead of schedule so its a fix whats broke and make a few small upgrades while I am in there type deal. I would rather replace the tensioner, IPB and seals than the gear this go round. Compensator is a must now since it has destroyed a new starter clutch.
I am attaching a picture of my shopping cart on Kutter HD's online store, just like a double checking on my parts before I order in case I forgot or messed up somewhere. It is one of the only places I can get all the parts in 1 stop. I have a few questions that I am still unsure of. Harley's parts pictures suck in comparison to Ford's parts system. Ford tells you how many of each part is required for nuts bolts and things like that. Does it require 2 inner primary seals(12052A)? And on the 5 bolts for the inner primary what is the part number for them, don't think they are in the primary picture and if they are I am confused as to which ones they are.
I really appreciate you guys' input and help so far. Hoping to be back in the saddle shortly cause it is already eating at me just knowing its broke down.
I am attaching a picture of my shopping cart on Kutter HD's online store, just like a double checking on my parts before I order in case I forgot or messed up somewhere. It is one of the only places I can get all the parts in 1 stop. I have a few questions that I am still unsure of. Harley's parts pictures suck in comparison to Ford's parts system. Ford tells you how many of each part is required for nuts bolts and things like that. Does it require 2 inner primary seals(12052A)? And on the 5 bolts for the inner primary what is the part number for them, don't think they are in the primary picture and if they are I am confused as to which ones they are.
I really appreciate you guys' input and help so far. Hoping to be back in the saddle shortly cause it is already eating at me just knowing its broke down.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 127
Nobody has mentioned this yet but you will need a primary drive locking tool and a 1 3/4" box end wrench (to hold the crank). I mention the box end wrench because that is a big assed wrench and not too many folks have one rattling around their toolbox. As a substitute for the primary drive locking tool that the Harley dealer will be happy to sell you, I alway use a piece of hardwood 6 1/2" long X 2" wide to jam things up. I have seen people jam a shop rag in there but a piece of hardwood works better.