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First I will say I have gear driven cams. On my 2004, the runout was .0015. I have had the gears in place for about 16,000 miles. But, I was curious and went on line and found the following, the thicknes of standard weight copy paper is .0038-.0045. That helped me wrap my head around the tolerances we are dealing with.
Took my bike down to check and see if the crank had run out and i must have got lucky because it was still right were harley put it "in the case half's". You know we are talking thousands of an inch and these number people see on the crank are from .0015 to .008 and if you zero the gauge on the high spot and roll the motor through and you see .007 total you are only .0035 out of the center. Less than a sheet of note book paper. If i were in to crank repair for a living i would be telling you all kinds of **** to scare you and get you to send me your crank. I will ride and buy harleys with .001 to .012 all day long and keep my money in my pocket and put the same mile on them as one with .000. You know stuff don't last forever it wears out and breaks. If i spent the money on fixing this so call problem i would tell everyone how great this repair was so i would not feel so bad on throwing so much money away. If i were going to yank and beat the **** out of my bike it would be a good idea to have it welded so it would not slip and get any worse but i ride it like it is made to be rode. If i wanted to raise hell one a bike, make big power and drag race all that stuff i would buy a Busa or a ZX-1400 some think made to run. I think i will keep on poking around on my slow *** turd with .007 run out on the crank and trying to make it look better I am already behind the 8 ball because it is a Fugly that is strike 1.
Two thousandths of an inch doesn't sound like a very large number until you multiply two thousandths by the number of revolutions per minute that your bike is doing. At 2000 rpm's, the total movement at the end of the crank shaft is four inches per minute! No wonder our bikes vibrate.
Hello there
Run out is one thing but shift is another. As well as what it will do to the motor.it makes you hit the vibration wall at 1800/2000 revs and some bikes come out the factory that way. Most run out is taken into account in the fact that they now have oil fed cam chain tensioners so it all gets soaked up. I think that if you are not that into whats inside the motor its best to just ride and not get sucked into all that stuff. It will be covered by Harley and they will sort it out. If you get court out after your 1 or 2 year cover you would think it would show in this time.
tbone
Hello there
Run out is one thing but shift is another. As well as what it will do to the motor.it makes you hit the vibration wall at 1800/2000 revs and some bikes come out the factory that way. Most run out is taken into account in the fact that they now have oil fed cam chain tensioners so it all gets soaked up. I think that if you are not that into whats inside the motor its best to just ride and not get sucked into all that stuff. It will be covered by Harley and they will sort it out. If you get court out after your 1 or 2 year cover you would think it would show in this time.
tbone
+1 on that......
That's why (knock on wood) I don't buy extended warranty's. I figure that if the big stuff is going to let go, it "should" within the standard warranty period. After that, I would rather do the repairs myself and know they were done right.
If your going to do a big bore on your bike, then crank work should be done at the same time. Me, I ride like an OF, so my 96 with the mods I have suit me and my crank just fine.
You will be okay but the pump gyrator is keyed to the crank while the pump housing is stationary. If not centered correctly the gyrator will scrub against the housing. I believe that after a lot of miles this will effect the pump. Prolly one of the reasons the 2011 pump was improved. This is mine after 118k and .004 runout.
Soft. If the crank ran perfectly true and the two inner rotors were snug driving the outer rotor and the pump body was doweled perfectly to the axis of the crank, the clearance between the rotors and there is some just like gears is what allows for the run-out. What surprises me is since Harley calls for the stupid screw in dowels with the tapers on them. Any one in the machine word knows tapped thread are the worst thing to align to. Not sure why Harley does not just dowel the pump on with hollow dowels since in theory that is what the tapered dowels are doing. In my opinion your wear is typical of what happens when a hard metal runs in a soft material. If it was from a wip from run out it would not be all the way around. Can you imagine how many times this spun in 118K of miles? The wear is exactly opposite of what you would think since the wear material gets embedded in the soft and wears the hard just like in lapping. And the incoming oil from both the incoming and of course the outgoing oil is unfiltered. The old EVO thought was filter one but this truly made no real sense that I could see.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 10, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
I bought a used 2007 RG and it shook way too much, run out was .006. It was in the shop to get cams and so I had him order up an S & S crank and use timken bearings. Also, since then I switched out the front motor mounts and rear swing arm bushings with Glide Pro urethane ones, it is a whole different bike now.
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