Wheel bearing and IDS rubber isolator photos
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 167
Likes: 39
From: Southern Ontario
All the picture's tell the story and like you said, it's a business. The old design was a retro fit to an existing wheel, while the new wheel they engineered it from the get go. Newer one has all the fixes built into it, less parts, cheaper to Mfg.
When I had my bike on the lift over the past season, I could "rock" the IDS sprocket and feel some play in it. I wanted to change the rubbers out the next time the rear wheel was off, not knowing if the "play" was ok? Well the new rubbers eliminated all play, so I am happy that it was worth it! They were cheap, and that doesn't happen often on a Harley!
On a side note, I notice all the time that my 2008 model as a bunch of the ideas that were rolled into the new frame models. You could see them rolling them out as a sales pitch and rolling test-beds ahead of the all new bike. Cool.
When I had my bike on the lift over the past season, I could "rock" the IDS sprocket and feel some play in it. I wanted to change the rubbers out the next time the rear wheel was off, not knowing if the "play" was ok? Well the new rubbers eliminated all play, so I am happy that it was worth it! They were cheap, and that doesn't happen often on a Harley!
On a side note, I notice all the time that my 2008 model as a bunch of the ideas that were rolled into the new frame models. You could see them rolling them out as a sales pitch and rolling test-beds ahead of the all new bike. Cool.
Stage I
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Chicago,IL
I have a 2010 Electric Glide w/ABS I knocked out bearing to replace them and sent rims to get power coated. I know the difference in ABS bearing and the other, but I don't recall which side of rim to install. There is a narrow and thick race and either bearing can fit. The tire was dismounted and the rim doesn't indicate direction.
The problem after installing bearings and installing on bike with torque specs. the wheel gets too tight to turn!
The problem after installing bearings and installing on bike with torque specs. the wheel gets too tight to turn!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,514
Likes: 3,951
From: Vermont
https://dl.boxcloud.com/bc/1/e304539...f9d4cd2500e98/
Last edited by dawg; Feb 17, 2013 at 10:14 PM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
I have a 2010 Electric Glide w/ABS I knocked out bearing to replace them and sent rims to get power coated. I know the difference in ABS bearing and the other, but I don't recall which side of rim to install. There is a narrow and thick race and either bearing can fit. The tire was dismounted and the rim doesn't indicate direction.
The problem after installing bearings and installing on bike with torque specs. the wheel gets too tight to turn!
The problem after installing bearings and installing on bike with torque specs. the wheel gets too tight to turn!
From what I have read, it is very possible to over-seat wheel bearings.
Based on some previous posts from Old Hippie here on the forum, and supporting comments from others, you have to be careful to not compress the outer race of the right side bearing to tightly against the internal bearing spacer. Suggested procedure is to install the left side to proper depth first, insert spacer, then install the right side last.
The idea is that the bearing should "just" touch the internal spacer enough to keep it from moving. If more torque beyond this point is used to attempt to seat the bearing deeper than necessary, it's a pretty good bet that the bearing race will be deformed and slightly damaged when installed.
Tolerances and clearances of the bearing internals are tight and can be compromised if too much pressure is applied during installation. This can cause wheel drag, heating, and promote early bearing failure. Check-out Old Hippies thread on this...it's informative.
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