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have u tried putting a compression gauge on the cylinders to see if u have equal compression. usually if cam timing is out u will get a big difference between the cylinders
when i did my first 103 with 255 cams stock heads i think i had 197 lbs in both cylinders i later changed to 10.5:1 pistons and mva heads with 255 cams this wasnt a good combination way too much compression think i had about 240 in each cylinder.
Lifter preload was set by watching the lifter rise and go down while turning back tire. After lifter went down, I set push rods 4 turns and 2 flats. Have read lots of methods on this. His one seemed easiest to know when on base circle. Could this be a wrong way to set push rods?
I have not checked compression yet. Will have to do it tomorrow.
Thanks for the input!
Thanks. You are right. I was thinking my old cars. They are set to 11 and 5.
Just to clarify: The dot on the larger sprocket should be at the 5 o'clock position and the dot on the smaller sprocket (mounted on crank shaft) should be at the 11 o'clock position.
From: Log home in SE Michigan full time. Log cabin in east TN, Smoky Mountians part time
A few weeks ago I built a FM 107. Check to see if you have spark when cranking the engine. Unplug and replug the fuel tank quick connect...listen for the "click". Last even if you have spark on the plugs...look at the manual for the plug wires from the coil...its easy to place the wires on the wrong plug.
How you set the push rods is correct if you have the Woods lifters....4turns plus 2 flats. I had that verified by Jamie himself.
Place the battery on a charger too...especially if you've been crankin' on it a bunch. Last you want to do is take the ring gear out when the starter drive kicks out from a low battery.
You stated you didnt pull the tank to do a 107 build???...I bet that was a PITA to get at a few of the rocker box and rocker cover bolts. Its enough of a PITA with the tank removed.
Lifter preload was set by watching the lifter rise and go down while turning back tire. After lifter went down, I set push rods 4 turns and 2 flats. Have read lots of methods on this. His one seemed easiest to know when on base circle. Could this be a wrong way to set push rods?
I have not checked compression yet. Will have to do it tomorrow.
Thanks for the input!
To adjust the front lifter pre-load, you want to position the rear lifters so that the rear exhaust lifter is fully extended and as it starts to go down, the rear intake lifter is starting to rise. At this point, both of the lifers on the front cylinder should be at their lowest point (on the base circle of the cam). This is where you adjust the pre-load on the front cylinder lifters.
Once you have the pre-load adjusted on the front lifters, you turn the engine over until the front exhaust lifter is fully extended and as it starts to go down and the front intake lifter starts to rise, the rear lifters should both be at their lowest point and are ready for pre-load adjustment.
You stated you didnt pull the tank to do a 107 build???...I bet that was a PITA to get at a few of the rocker box and rocker cover bolts. Its enough of a PITA with the tank removed.
He didn't do a 107 build, only cams, lifters and quicky pushrods.
How you set the push rods is correct if you have the Woods lifters....4turns plus 2 flats. I had that verified by Jamie himself.
I finished my 107 build yesterday. I also verified with Jamie the correct adjustment for the Woods lifters (4 +2), since the FM video says 4 +2 and the information that comes with the cams, lifters and push rods are all different.
just watched the fuel moto vid and they set the push rod at 4 turns and 2 flats as u described. as long as the lifter was at the very bottom of the stroke and then u took it to a finger tight O lash then went the 4 turns and 2 flats it should be the way as described in the fuel moto vid. put compression gauge on it and see what u get. this a good way to check if cams are timed right and also gives u a reading to compare to later it some thing goes wrong later and you will have a recorded base line .
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