as anyone run into issues bleeding ABS brakes.
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 787
Likes: 6
From: Charlotte NC
I was starting to think the same. But if the ABS is not right the light will stay on and it will operate just like a bike without. And I guess if that happens I can then take it in. But on the other hand it may not be worth the trouble. I guess some nights I blow $100 in a half hour of poker. I just hate giving the dealer anything I don/t have to. POINT TAKEN
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
Guys, this is not rocket science...Your just bleeding your brake lines.....
Install some speed bleeders, keep filling the master cylinders while pumping the brake controls until you have all new fluid in them. Tighten Speed Bleeders, top off the MC's, cap up the MC's and call it a day.
Items needed: Speed Bleeders, DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid, tubing and a container to collect the old fluid.
NO AIR will get into the ABS system and you can save your $100+ that you would spend at the dealer.
Install some speed bleeders, keep filling the master cylinders while pumping the brake controls until you have all new fluid in them. Tighten Speed Bleeders, top off the MC's, cap up the MC's and call it a day.
Items needed: Speed Bleeders, DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid, tubing and a container to collect the old fluid.
NO AIR will get into the ABS system and you can save your $100+ that you would spend at the dealer.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,458
Likes: 57,015
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
Guys, this is not rocket science...Your just bleeding your brake lines.....
Install some speed bleeders, keep filling the master cylinders while pumping the brake controls until you have all new fluid in them. Tighten Speed Bleeders, top off the MC's, cap up the MC's and call it a day.
Items needed: Speed Bleeders, DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid, tubing and a container to collect the old fluid.
NO AIR will get into the ABS system and you can save your $100+ that you would spend at the dealer.
Install some speed bleeders, keep filling the master cylinders while pumping the brake controls until you have all new fluid in them. Tighten Speed Bleeders, top off the MC's, cap up the MC's and call it a day.
Items needed: Speed Bleeders, DOT 4 or 5 brake fluid, tubing and a container to collect the old fluid.
NO AIR will get into the ABS system and you can save your $100+ that you would spend at the dealer.
Be sure to use brake fluid that is compatible ( and the same as ) the fluid that is in your system now. While some fluid types can be mixed, you can encounter some serious problems when mixing fluids that are not.
http://www.gabma.us/docs/dot5.pdf
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 14,731
Likes: 2,536
From: Mountain Top, Alabama
Since no one has said it, always be sure to bench bleed the new Master Cylinder before the final install with the lines full of fluid to reduce the chance of air in the lines. Nice to have that first pump of the new MC full of just fluid. Protect that paint!
Just think about it...
Just think about it...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 19
From: Cypress, TX
Since no one has said it, always be sure to bench bleed the new Master Cylinder before the final install with the lines full of fluid to reduce the chance of air in the lines. Nice to have that first pump of the new MC full of just fluid. Protect that paint!
Just think about it...
Just think about it...
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 3
From: Columbia, SC
I rebuilt my upper line from the ABS module to the MC and all I did was flick my lever for about 15-20 minutes and all the air escaped from the MC. No ABS light came on and they worked like usual. But you are right, worse case scenario is they perform like a non-ABS bike and the light stays on. You fuc$ed up and need to spend the $100. Might as well perform the fix yourself and spend the money if you mess up.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 302
Likes: 6
From: Tulsa,OK
I'm in the camp that this isn't rocket science. Done it twice with the mighty vac. No issues. I'm actually more concerned about getting brake fluid on the paint or chrome than I am with disrupting the ABS.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
Something else no one has mentioned... Bleeding the brakes has very little to do with the ABS function. The ABS function is primarily an electronic action. Bleeding controls the hydraulic function.
You should have no problem bleeding the brakes in a conventional manner provided you do not introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving while it is operating. To ensure that you don't introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving during operation, simply do not turn on the ignition switch anytime during the bleeding process. You could also remove the ABS fuse prior to starting your work... That will ensure that no air can get into the ABS Module Valving. The reason you don't want to turn on the ignition is that when you do the ABS Valves will cycle and therin lies the possibility to get air into the Module Valving.
As for the Digital Technician, it does nothing to "inspect" or "ensure" the system is bled properly. What it does do is to cycle the ABS Valves during the bleeding process to allow the passage of any trapped air. It's still up to the operator to do the process correctly.
Bottom line is this... If you have a firm pedal/lever when you finish, all is well. If not, keep bleeding until you do. If you can't get a firm pedal/lever with conventional methods, then you may need to cycle the ABS valves using the HD Digital Technician.
You should have no problem bleeding the brakes in a conventional manner provided you do not introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving while it is operating. To ensure that you don't introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving during operation, simply do not turn on the ignition switch anytime during the bleeding process. You could also remove the ABS fuse prior to starting your work... That will ensure that no air can get into the ABS Module Valving. The reason you don't want to turn on the ignition is that when you do the ABS Valves will cycle and therin lies the possibility to get air into the Module Valving.
As for the Digital Technician, it does nothing to "inspect" or "ensure" the system is bled properly. What it does do is to cycle the ABS Valves during the bleeding process to allow the passage of any trapped air. It's still up to the operator to do the process correctly.
Bottom line is this... If you have a firm pedal/lever when you finish, all is well. If not, keep bleeding until you do. If you can't get a firm pedal/lever with conventional methods, then you may need to cycle the ABS valves using the HD Digital Technician.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
Something else no one has mentioned... Bleeding the brakes has very little to do with the ABS function. The ABS function is primarily an electronic action. Bleeding controls the hydraulic function.
You should have no problem bleeding the brakes in a conventional manner provided you do not introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving while it is operating. To ensure that you don't introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving during operation, simply do not turn on the ignition switch anytime during the bleeding process. You could also remove the ABS fuse prior to starting your work... That will ensure that no air can get into the ABS Module Valving. The reason you don't want to turn on the ignition is that when you do the ABS Valves will cycle and therin lies the possibility to get air into the Module Valving.
As for the Digital Technician, it does nothing to "inspect" or "ensure" the system is bled properly. What it does do is to cycle the ABS Valves during the bleeding process to allow the passage of any trapped air. It's still up to the operator to do the process correctly.
Bottom line is this... If you have a firm pedal/lever when you finish, all is well. If not, keep bleeding until you do. If you can't get a firm pedal/lever with conventional methods, then you may need to cycle the ABS valves using the HD Digital Technician.
You should have no problem bleeding the brakes in a conventional manner provided you do not introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving while it is operating. To ensure that you don't introduce any air into the ABS Module Valving during operation, simply do not turn on the ignition switch anytime during the bleeding process. You could also remove the ABS fuse prior to starting your work... That will ensure that no air can get into the ABS Module Valving. The reason you don't want to turn on the ignition is that when you do the ABS Valves will cycle and therin lies the possibility to get air into the Module Valving.
As for the Digital Technician, it does nothing to "inspect" or "ensure" the system is bled properly. What it does do is to cycle the ABS Valves during the bleeding process to allow the passage of any trapped air. It's still up to the operator to do the process correctly.
Bottom line is this... If you have a firm pedal/lever when you finish, all is well. If not, keep bleeding until you do. If you can't get a firm pedal/lever with conventional methods, then you may need to cycle the ABS valves using the HD Digital Technician.