as anyone run into issues bleeding ABS brakes.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 732
Likes: 1
From: Columbus , OH
My light has been on for awhile now. I put on chromed calipers and was sure I got all the air out but the light has been on ever sense.
I have firm lever and pedal but the ABS doesn't work.
If I use the mityvac to bleed will the light go off if successful?
I have firm lever and pedal but the ABS doesn't work.
If I use the mityvac to bleed will the light go off if successful?
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Virginia Beach
I changed front brake lines when changing handlebars and decided to try the Speed Bleeders. Unbelievably easy! It took a while for the line to fill up and I began to get nervous after pumping the brake handle for about 3 minutes with no resistance, but then I started to feel some resistance and next thing you know the handle gets firm. When you start to see the fluid level drop in the master cylinder at the same rate as you are pumping, your there! They are worth 10 times their price! Warning: Do not turn on your ignition from the minute you loosen your banjo bolt until you finish bleeding and tighten back the Speed Bleeder!
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 208
Likes: 6
From: Renton, WA
Ripsaw has the best explanation regarding the ABS module in this whole thread. Changing the fluid when replacing a brake line is fine as long as the ABS system isn't cycled by turning on the ignition. Here is the deal why the dealer flush with the Digitech system is necessary. DOT4 brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the air thru the vents needed to allow the fluid level to drop as the pads wear. In a cage, with all the weight, this moisture will show up in heavy or prolonged braking situations by causing the moisture to boil, making for a very long pedal and loss of braking effectiveness (you are essentially compressing a gas vs. compressing a fluid). This boiling of the fluid doesn't often occur in a motorcycle but it can. More often, it will show up in corrosion of various expensive parts, which will eventually result in loss of braking effectiveness. Bleeding the brakes without the digitech will replace all of the old fluid in the system except for the fluid in the ABS module. As I live in a wet climate, I will bleed my brakes in my garage one year, then head for the dealer for a full flush with the digitech system the second year. Seems to work OK.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Sanford, NC
Abs
You must take into consideration that you will be pulling fluids through the ABS module when you change brake lines. The brake line (FRONT BRAKES) from the lever and master cylinder goes to the ABS module. Cycles through the ABS module and exits the block via another hose to the puck that distributes to the front left and right calipers. Regardless of how you do it it will pull some amount of air into or through the ABS module. As many have said do not cycle the ignition that will cycle the ABS module locking any air that is present until the whole system has been properly bled.
if done for a long enough of period of time all air should be removed from the system and no ill affects should be present.
if done for a long enough of period of time all air should be removed from the system and no ill affects should be present.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 521
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Not trying to hijack the thread here but a lot of you have some good insight on brakes.
I just installed some 14 inch bars on my FLHX and have no issues with the ABS coming on or braking ability but have noticed that the sight glass is not as full when upright and off the jiffy stand as it was with the original stock bars.
When sitting on the stand the level looks full and when upright the level is about 50% capacity, is this normal or should I top this off with the bike upright and will the fluid leak out through the little breather holes if compltely full?
thanks and sorry for the hijack.
I just installed some 14 inch bars on my FLHX and have no issues with the ABS coming on or braking ability but have noticed that the sight glass is not as full when upright and off the jiffy stand as it was with the original stock bars.
When sitting on the stand the level looks full and when upright the level is about 50% capacity, is this normal or should I top this off with the bike upright and will the fluid leak out through the little breather holes if compltely full?
thanks and sorry for the hijack.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 855
Likes: 1
From: Puyallup, WA
Bleed them like any other bike. Even if you get air in the lines it's not like putting your life in jeoperady. The ABS function may not work correctly but the brakes will still work like any other brakes. If there is air in the lines it will just be softer until you bleed the air out. When I did my ABS to replace lines I had the ABS light come on. Simply pulled back in the garage, bled the brakes to get the rest of the air out of the system, then simply cleared the code and off I went. No issues since then. Some good advice on here about not turning on the bike or pulling the fuse until you have them bled properly. I was in a hurry and it was my first time bleeding them so I thought I had all the air out and I was wrong.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 972
Likes: 633
From: Ohio
Bleeding the brakes without the digitech will replace all of the old fluid in the system except for the fluid in the ABS module. .[/QUOTE]
This is the first I have read that the ABS module is bypassed while bleeding brakes the standard way, that is good to know.
This is the first I have read that the ABS module is bypassed while bleeding brakes the standard way, that is good to know.
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